Bistro Le Clochard

Frommer's Review

This restaurant fits snugly into the northwestern corner of the grim ramparts of Fort Rif, at the gateway to the harbor. We think that Fort Nassau is better, but Bistro Le Clochard finishes a close second. Its entrance is marked with a canopy leading to a series of rooms, each built under the 19th-century vaulting of the old Dutch fort. This appealingly formal restaurant has several seating options, including a greenhouse-style glassed-in dining room near the entrance and an outdoor terrace. Appetizers like snails marinated in cognac or crepes stuffed with a seafood ragout with a hollandaise sauce seem more appropriate to a Paris bistro than a tropical island. The kitchen staff is at its best when preparing beef dishes; the tenderloin with assorted mushrooms in a cream sauce is especially recommended. The catch of the day always appears on the menu with a lemon-butter sauce.

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