Da Ji Lurou Huangmian Guan

Surprisingly, the specialty dish of Dunhuang is lurou huangmian (donkey meat yellow noodles). More surprisingly, it's delicious. It is claimed that the method of making the noodles is revealed in Cave 265, but the cave isn't open to the public and the owners of this noodle shop aren't talking. The noodles are cooked with tomato, tofu, mushrooms, and plenty of garlic -- a small plate (xiaopan) is more than sufficient. To accompany the main dish, order some donkey meat (lurou). Half a jin (ban jin), which is half a kilo, is enough for two. The meat is lean and tastes a little like roast beef. You'll be served a bowl of finely chopped garlic, to which you should add chili sauce and vinegar to taste, before dipping the meat in it. If you want to meet some locals, this market street is a better choice than the tacky main nightmarket (yeshi). An after-dinner stroll through the charming narrow lanes provides a rewarding glimpse of the old town.

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