As befits this spiritual, conservative, and orthodox city, most nightlife in Fes revolves around family activities and nonalcoholic pursuits, namely enjoying an ice cream or drinking coffee or mint tea in one of the city's cafes. From late afternoon to late evening, you'll often find families and young Fassis hanging out on Baghdadi Square, between Bab Mahrouk and Bab Bou Jeloud. Quite often you'll find musicians, storytellers, and even some African herboristes -- a la Jemaa el Fna in Marrakech -- entertaining the crowds and adding a noisy, lively atmosphere to the evening stroll. The newly opened Cafe Clock is a great place to meet both locals and travelers. It hosts irregular literary and film events, including movie nights in the special projector room. If you're looking for a drink in the medina, the long-time watering hole of choice is still the Hotel Batha. The hotel's colonial-esque Churchill lounge is a popular haunt with both ex-pat residents and hotel guests, while the Le Consul bar at the rear can sometimes have quite a party happening and stays open until 2am. For a refined, though expensive, after-dark drink, head to the Sofitel Palais Jamaï, Bab Guissa (tel. 035/634331; www.sofitel.com). This 1879 former palace has a piano bar -- which actually has a piano -- and also offers glorious sweeping views over the medina. Come here for sunset.
Out in the ville nouvelle, the cafes surrounding place Mohammed V are always a good spot to watch the evening throngs. There are also a few male-only bars around here. The only other options for a drink are in the enclosed bars of the Hotel Mounia and Hotel Splendid.
For evening pursuits of the cultural kind, contact the Arabic Language Institute in Fes (ALIF) and the American Language Center, 2 rue Ahmed Hiba, Ville Nouvelle (tel. 035/624850; fax 035/931608; www.alif-fes.com), to see if they have any upcoming events.
