Planning a Trip

Mary McCarthy famously described Florence (Firenze) as a "City of Stone." This assessment digs deeper than merely the fact that the buildings, streets, doorjambs, sidewalks, windowsills, towers, and bridges are all cobbled together in shades of gray, stern rock hewn by generations of the stonecutters Michelangelo grew up with. Florence's stoniness is evident in both its countenance and its character. Florentines often seem more serious and slower to warm to strangers than other Italians. The city's fundamental rhythms are medieval, and it's fiendishly difficult to get beyond the touristy surface and see what really makes Florence tick. Although the historic center is compact, it takes time and effort to get to know it, get the hang of its alleys, and understand the deep history of its palace-lined streets.

Florence's City Code -- What used to be Florence's city code -- 055 -- is now an integral part of every phone number. Always dial it (including the initial zero), even when calling to another number from within Florence itself. Soon, new numbers in Florence may be issued starting with something other than 055.

Tourist Offices

The city's largest tourist office is at Via Cavour 1r, 50129 Firenze (tel. 055-290-832; fax 055-276-0383; www.firenzeturismo.it), about 3 blocks north of the Duomo. Outrageously, they now charge for basic, useful info: .50€ for a city map (though there's still a free one that differs only in lacking relatively inane brief descriptions of the museums and sights), 2€ for a little guide to museums, and 1€ each for pamphlets on the bridges and the piazze of Florence. The monthly Informacittà pamphlet on events, exhibits, and concerts is still free. The tourist office is open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 8:30am to 1:30pm.

At the head of the tracks in Stazione Santa Maria Novella is a tiny info office with some maps and a hotel-booking service, open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 9pm (to 8pm Nov-Mar), but the station's main tourist office (tel. 055-212-245) is outside at Piazza della Stazione 4. With your back to the tracks, take the left exit, cross onto the concrete median, and turn right; it's about 30m (100 ft.) ahead. The office is usually open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 7pm (often to 1:30pm in winter) and Sunday 8:30am to 1:30pm.

Another office sits on an obscure side street south of Piazza Santa Croce, Borgo Santa Croce 29r (tel. 055-234-0444), open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 7pm and Sunday 9am to 2pm.

Publications

At the tourist offices, pick up the free monthly Informacittà. The bilingual Concierge Information (www.florence-concierge.it) magazine, free from the front desks of top hotels, contains a monthly calendar of events and details on attractions. Firenze Spettacolo, a 1.55€ Italian-language monthly sold at most newsstands, is the most detailed and up-to-date listing of nightlife, arts, and entertainment. As for English-language publications, The Florentine has sort of picked up where the now-defunct Italy Daily left off.

Websites

The official Florence information website, www.firenzeturismo.it, contains a wealth of up-to-date information on Florence and its province, including a searchable hotels form that allows you to specify amenities, categories, and the like.

Firenze By Net (www.mega.it/florence), Firenze.Net (http://english.firenze.net), and Florence OnLine (www.fol.it) are all Italy-based websites with English translations and good general information on Florence. The site for Concierge Information (www.florence-concierge.it) is an excellent little guide to the current month's events, exhibits, concerts, and theater.