Getting Around

Florence is a walking city. You can leisurely stroll between the two top sights, the Duomo and the Uffizi, in less than 5 minutes. The hike from the most northerly sights, San Marco with its Fra' Angelico frescoes and the Accademia with Michelangelo's David, to the most southerly, the Pitti Palace across the Arno, should take no more than 30 minutes. From Santa Maria Novella across town to Santa Croce is an easy 20- to 30-minute walk.

Most of the streets, however, were designed to handle the moderate pedestrian traffic and occasional horse-drawn cart of a medieval city. Sidewalks, where they exist, are narrow -- often less than .5m (2 ft.) wide. Though much of the centro storico is closed to traffic, this doesn't include taxis, residents with parking permits, people without permits who drive there anyway, and the endless swarm of noisy Vespas and motorini (scooters).

In high season, especially July and August, the cars and their pollution (catalytic converters aren't yet standard), massive pedestrian and tourist traffic, maniac moped drivers, and stifling heat can wear you down. On some days Florence can feel like a minor circle of Dante's Inferno. Evenings tend to be cool year-round, bringing residents and visitors alike out for the traditional before-dinner passeggiata (stroll) up and down Via Calzaiuoli and down Via Roma and its continuations across the Ponte Vecchio.

Walking Warning -- Florentine streets are mainly cobbled or flagstone, as are the sidewalks, and thus they can be rough on soles, feet, and joints after a while. Florence may be one of the world's greatest shoe-shopping cities, but a sensible pair of quality walking shoes or sneakers is highly recommended over loafers or pumps. In dress shoes or heels, forget it -- unless you are an experienced stone walker.

By Bus

You'll rarely need to use Florence's efficient ATAF bus system (tel. 055-565-0222; www.ataf.net) since the city is so wonderfully compact. Many visitors accustomed to such big cities as Rome step off their arriving train and onto a city bus out of habit, thinking to reach the center; within 5 minutes they find themselves in the suburbs. The cathedral is a mere 5- to 7-minute walk from the train station.

Bus tickets cost 1€ and are good for an hour. A four-pack (biglietto multiplo) is 3.90€, a 24-hour pass 4.50€, a 2-day pass 7.60€, a 3-day pass 9.60€, and a 7-day pass 16€. Tickets are sold at tabacchi (tobacconists), bars, and most newsstands. Once on board, validate your ticket in the box near the rear door to avoid a steep fine. If you intend to use the bus system, you should pick up a bus map at a tourist office. Since traffic is limited in most of the historic center, buses make runs on principal streets only, save four tiny electric buses that trundle about the centro storico.

By Taxi

Taxis aren't cheap, and with the city so small and the one-way system forcing drivers to take convoluted routes, they aren't an economical way to get about town. Taxis are most useful to get you and your bags between the train station and your hotel in the virtually busless centro storico. The standard rate is .80€ per kilometer (slightly more than a half-mile), with a whopping minimum fare of 2.40€ to start the meter (that rises to 4.05€ on Sun; 5.15€ 10pm-6am), plus .60€ per bag. There's a taxi stand outside the train station; otherwise, you have to call Radio Taxi at tel. 055-4242, 055-4798, 055-4390, or 055-4499.

By Bicycle & Scooter

Most of the bike-rental shops in town are located just north of Piazza San Marco, such as Alinari, Via San Zanobi 38r (tel. 055-280-500; www.alinarirental.com), which rents bikes (2.50€ per hr.; 12€ per day) and mountain bikes (3€ per hr.; 18€ per day). It also rents 50cc and 100cc scooters (15€ per hr.; 55€ per day). Another renter with the same basic prices is Florence by Bike, Via San Zanobi 120-122r (tel. 055-488-992; www.florencebybike.it).

Illegally parked bicycles and scooters have become such an issue in Florence that authorities have begun "towing" them -- that is, breaking the locks and impounding them. Make sure you park your scooter in a marked spot (there will be dozens of others there) or your bike at a rack where it won't interfere with pedestrian traffic, which is heavy in the tourist season.

By Car

Trying to drive in the centro storico is a frustrating, useless exercise, and moreover, unauthorized traffic is not allowed past signs marked "TZL." Florence is a maze of one-way streets and pedestrian zones, and it takes an old hand to know which laws to break in order to get where you need to go -- plus you need a permit to do anything beyond dropping off and picking up bags at your hotel. Park your vehicle in one of the huge underground lots on the center's periphery and pound the pavement.

By Guided Tour

CAF Tours, Via Roma 4 (tel. 055-283-200; www.caftours.com), offers two half-day bus tours of town (45€), including visits to the Uffizi, the Medici Chapels, and Piazzale Michelangiolo, as well as offer several walking tours and cooking classes from 25€ to 60€. Another very interesting entry in the world of walking tours is Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com), which offers tours led by academics and other experts in their field in a variety of specialties, from the gastronomical to the archeological. Tours are limited to six people and cost between 40€ and 70€ per person. Lastly, Walking Tours of Florence (tel. 055-264-5033; www.italy.artviva.com) has a huge array of walking tours and museum guides and swims at villas for every budget, starting at 25€.

Call I Bike Italy (tel. 347-638-3976; www.ibikeitaly.com) to sign up for 1-day rides to Chianti and Fiesole for 70€, or 2 days to Siena for 300€. (This is a Florida-based company, and prearranged trips can be paid by checks made out in U.S. dollars. They do not accept credit cards.)