Getting Around

Florence is a walking city. You can leisurely stroll between the two top sights, the Duomo and the Uffizi, in less than 5 minutes. The hike from the most northerly sights, San Marco with its Fra' Angelico frescoes and the Accademia with Michelangelo's David, to the most southerly, the Pitti Palace across the Arno, should take no more than 30 minutes. From Santa Maria Novella across town to Santa Croce is an easy 20- to 30-minute walk.

Most of the streets, however, were designed to handle the moderate pedestrian traffic and occasional horse-drawn cart of a medieval city. Sidewalks, where they exist, are narrow -- often less than .5m (2 ft.) wide. Though much of the centro storico is closed to traffic, this doesn't include taxis, residents with parking permits, people without permits who drive there anyway, and the endless swarm of noisy Vespas and motorini (scooters).

In high season, especially July and August, the cars and their pollution (catalytic converters aren't yet standard), massive pedestrian and tourist traffic, maniac moped drivers, and stifling heat can wear you down. On some days Florence can feel like a minor circle of Dante's Inferno. Evenings tend to be cool year-round, bringing residents and visitors alike out for the traditional before-dinner passeggiata (stroll) up and down Via Calzaiuoli and down Via Roma and its continuations across the Ponte Vecchio.

A Walking Warning -- Florentine streets are mainly cobbled or flagstone, as are the sidewalks, and thus they can be rough on soles, feet, and joints after a while. Florence may be one of the world's greatest shoe-shopping cities, but a sensible pair of quality walking shoes or sneakers is highly recommended over loafers or pumps. In dress shoes or heels, forget it -- unless you are an experienced stone walker.

By Bus

You'll rarely need to use Florence's efficient ATAF bus system (tel. 055-565-0222; www.ataf.net) since the city is so wonderfully compact. Many visitors accustomed to such big cities as Rome step off their arriving train and onto a city bus out of habit, thinking to reach the center; within 5 minutes they find themselves in the suburbs. The cathedral is a mere 5- to 7-minute walk from the train station.

Bus tickets cost 1€ ($1.30) and are good for an hour. A four-pack (biglietto multiplo) is 3.90€ ($5.10), a 24-hour pass 4.50€ ($5.85), a 2-day pass 7.60€ ($9.90), a 3-day pass 9.60€ ($12), and a 7-day pass 16€ ($21). Tickets are sold at tabacchi (tobacconists), bars, and most newsstands. Once on board, validate your ticket in the box near the rear door to avoid a steep fine. If you intend to use the bus system, you should pick up a bus map at a tourist office. Since traffic is limited in most of the historic center, buses make runs on principal streets only, save four tiny electric buses that trundle about the centro storico.

By Taxi

Taxis aren't cheap, and with the city so small and the one-way system forcing drivers to take convoluted routes, they aren't an economical way to get about town. Taxis are most useful to get you and your bags between the train station and your hotel in the virtually busless centro storico. The standard rate is .80€ ($1.05) per kilometer (slightly more than a half-mile), with a whopping minimum fare of 2.40€ ($3.10) to start the meter (that rises to 4.05€/$5.25 on Sun; 5.15€/$6.70 10pm-6am), plus .60€ (80¢) per bag. There's a taxi stand outside the train station; otherwise, you have to call Radio Taxi at tel. 055-4242, 055-4798, 055-4390, or 055-4499.

By Bicycle & Scooter

In an effort to provide an alternative to driving in the city center, the city offers free bikes (well, in past years there has been a nominal .50€/65¢ fee). Firenze Parcheggi, the public garage authority (tel. 055-500-0453; www.firenzeparcheggi.it), has set up temporary sites about town (look for stands at the train station, Piazza Strozzi, Via della Nina along the south side of Palazzo Vecchio, and in the large public parking lots) where bikes are furnished free from 8am to 7:30pm; you return the bike to any of the sites.

If no bikes are left, you'll have to pay for them at a shop such as Alinari, Via Guelfa 85r (tel. 055-280-500; www.alinarirental.com), which rents bikes (2.50€/$3.25 per hour; 12€/$16 per day) and mountain bikes (3€/$3.90 per hour; 18€/$23 per day). It also rents 50cc scooters (8€/$10 per hour; 28€/$36 per day) and 100cc mopeds (10€/$13 per hour; 47€/$61 per day). Another renter with the same basic prices is Florence by Bike, Via San Zanobi 120-122r (tel. 055-488-992; www.florencebybike.it)

Illegally parked bicycles have become such an issue in Florence that authorities have begun "towing" them -- that is, breaking the locks and impounding them. Make sure you park your bike at a rack or where it won't interfere with pedestrian traffic, which is heavy in the tourist season.

By Car

Trying to drive in the centro storico is a frustrating, useless exercise. Florence is a maze of one-way streets and pedestrian zones, and it takes an old hand to know which laws to break in order to get where you need to go -- plus you need a permit to do anything beyond dropping off and picking up bags at your hotel. Park your vehicle in one of the huge underground lots on the center's periphery and pound the pavement.

By Guided Tour

American Express teams with venerable CAF Tours, Via Roma 4 (tel. 055-283-200; www.caftours.com), to offer two half-day bus tours of town (39€/$51), including visits to the Uffizi, the Medici Chapels, and Piazzale Michelangiolo. They also offer several walking tours for 23€ to 26€ ($30-$34); day trips to Pisa, Siena/San Gimignano, the Chianti, Lucca, or Medici villas for 35€ to 69€ ($46-$90); and farther afield to Venice, Rome, or Perugia/Assisi for 82€ to 105€ ($107-$137). You can book similar tours through most other travel agencies around town.

Walking Tours of Florence (tel. 055-264-5033; www.artviva.com) offers a basic 3-hour tour daily at 9:45am for 25€ ($33) adults, 20€ ($26) students under 26, or 10€ ($13) children aged 6 to 12. Meet at their office on the mezzanine level of Piazza Santa Stefano 2, a pocket-size piazza hidden off Via Por Santa Maria, between Via Lambertesca and the Ponte Vecchio. They provide many other thematic tours as well as private guides.

Call I Bike Italy (tel. 055-234-237, or 772-321-0267 in the U.S.; www.ibikeitaly.com) to sign up for 1-day rides in Fiesole for 65€ ($90), or 2 days to Siena for 203€ ($280). (This is a Florida-based company, and prearranged trips can be paid by checks made out in U.S. dollars.) A shuttle bus picks you up at 9am at the Ponte delle Grazie and drives you to the outskirts of town, and an enjoyable lunch in a local trattoria is included. You're back in town by 5pm. It might stretch your budget, but you should get out of this tourist-trodden stone city for a glimpse of the incomparable Tuscan countryside. They also offer a summertime, 2-day trip (Tues-Wed) to Siena for 203€ ($280).