Buca dell'Orafo

A buca is a cellar joint with half a dozen crowded tables serving good, basic Florentine fare. A few locals come here every night, but Orafo's years in the guidebooks have made Americans its primary customers -- Florentines aren't willing to give this place up yet, though, and you can still find it packed with locals if you reserve a late seating. However, the heavy tourism has jacked its prices above what you'd expect for peasant food. That food is still very well prepared, however, and the location can't be beat. You can't go wrong with the thick ribollita. If it's on the menu, go for the paglia e fieno alla boscaiola (a "hay and straw" mix of both egg and spinach fettuccine in mushroom-meat sauce). Orafo's best secondo is arista di maiale con patate (roast pork loin with potatoes), while candied stewed pears round out the meal nicely.

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