Coco Lezzone

Frommer's Review

This tiny trattoria hidden in a tangle of alleys near the Arno consists of long communal tables in a couple of pocket-size rooms wrapped around a cubbyhole of a kitchen whose chef, according to the restaurant's dialect name, is a bit off his rocker. The place is popular with local intellectuals, journalists, and the city soccer team. While enjoying your ribollita (known here as a "triumph of humility") or rigatoni al sugo (in a chunky ragù), look at where the yellow paint on the lower half of the wall gives way to white: That's how high the Arno flooded the joint in 1966. If you want a bistecca alla fiorentina, call ahead first. Friday is baccalà (salt cod) day, and every day their involtini (thin veal slice wrapped around vegetables) and crocchette di filetto (veal-and-basil meatloaf smothered in tomato sauce) are good.

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