Il Cantinone

With tourists and large groups of locals all seated at long tables under the low arc of a brick ceiling, the convivial noise can sometimes get a bit overwhelming. But the feeling of having walked into a party is part of the charm of this place. The specialty is crostini, slabs of peasant bread that act as vehicles for toppings such as prosciutto, tomatoes, mozzarella, and sausage. You and your companion get an antipasto, two primi (usually pasta dishes), and a secondo, which might be a tender and tasty wild boar stew. With each course you get a different wine, building from something like a light Orvieto secco through a well-chosen chianti to a brawny Brunello for the meat dish. The ribollita is great, but is usually only served in winter, when black cabbage is in season.

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