Trattoria La Casalinga

The decor is as staid as a grandmother's living room, but the home cooking of its name is just as good. The ribollita is thick, the ravioli al sugo di coniglio (in a rabbit sauce) rich, and the pasta della nonna (short, hollow pasta in a sauce of tomatoes, sausage, and onions) excellent. Don't expect anything fancy in the secondi department, either -- just solid favorites such as bollito misto (a mix of boiled meats with green sauce), trippa alla fiorentina, and galletto ruspante al forno (half a young oven-baked chicken). The starving artists and local artisans have been all but driven out by the tourist hordes, but if you want to stuff yourself on huge portions of Oltrarno workmen's food, this is the place to come.

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