Stellenbosch to Franschhoek: The Helshoogte Pass
From Stellenbosch, the R310 heads over the scenic Helshoogte Pass, linking it with Franschhoek and Paarl, both of which lie some 30 minutes from the center of Stellenbosch. If you're heading to Franschhoek from Stellenbosch, follow the R310 for 2km (1 1/4 miles) before turning left into Ida's Valley and heading for Rustenberg (tel. 021/809-1200; Mon-Fri 9am-4:30pm, Sat 10am-1:30pm). This gorgeous estate is renowned for its red wines, as well as its peaceful and beautiful setting, with a historic manor house contrasting with a tasting center and state-of-the-art milking parlor. Stop for lunch at Tokara for the fine views, or push on to visit the beautifully maintained Cape Dutch estate of Boschendal (tel. 021/870-4200; 8:30/9:30am-4:30/5pm; wine tastings on Sun only in season [Nov-Apr]). Together with Vergelegen and Constantia, Boschendal is one of the Winelands' most photographed estates, combining an excellent manor house museum with beautiful grounds and great wines. Boschendal also offers three different dining experiences: The luncheon buffet (tel. 021/870-4272; R195/$27/£14) is served in the original wine cellar, with a huge buffet table covered from end to end with tasty traditional Cape Malay and South African dishes as well as lighter treats with a weekly changing menu that includes tasty treats like venison carpaccio with Satsuma preserve, watercress with local goat's cheese and walnuts, and Franschhoek specialties like smoked salmon trout (a type of trout with salmon-hued flesh). If you're not that hungry, head for the wrought-iron tables under the oaks at Le Café and order one of the delicious quiches (the delicious traditional bobotie is recommended). From October to April, you can purchase a picnic hamper (R110/$15/£8) to enjoy on the lawns shaded by more ancient oaks. (Ask about the full-moon picnics, held Dec-Mar.)
The Franschhoek Wine Route
The following estates, all clearly signposted off Main Road and its extension, Huguenot Road, are recommended. La Motte (tel. 021/876-3119; Mon-Fri 9am-4:30pm, Sat 10am-3pm), which has been producing wines for 3 centuries, is worth stopping at to sample its red wines; the same is true of Rupert & Rothschild (tel. 021/874-1648; by appointment only). If you're hungry, head for Moreson Soleil de Matin (tel. 021/876-3055; Mon-Sun 11am-5pm; May-Nov until 4pm), where the sauvignon blanc is a good choice with lunch at the estate's delightfully relaxed Bread & Wine Restaurant (Mon-Sun noon-3pm), worth visiting for its oven-fresh focaccia alone, served with Mediterranean-style dips. Pop into Grande Provence Wines (tel. 021/876-8600; daily 10am-8pm) to sample the semisweet Angels Tears wine, and Mont Rochelle Mountain Vineyards (tel. 021/876-3000; Sept-Apr daily 9:30am-6pm), still owned by a descendant of the French Huguenots, for its glorious setting. In fact, if it's setting you're after, double back and head onto the dirt track to Glenwood Vineyards (tel. 021/876-2044; Mon-Fri 11am-4pm); besides enjoying the drive, you can sample one of the estate's rather fine chardonnays.
A visit to the Cabriere Estate (tel. 021/876-2630; tastings and cellar tours Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10:30am-4pm) is also recommended -- and not just for the excellent bubbly. Every Saturday at 11am you can witness a demonstration by winemaker Achim von Arnim, who uncorks his bottles by slicing the neck off with a sabre, followed by an in-depth (2-hr.) tasting and tour (R30/$4/£2 per person).
The boutique-style Boekenhoutskloof (tel. 021/876-3320) produces internationally acclaimed wines, particularly reds -- tastings Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. If you arrive between 9am and 1pm, you don't need an appointment to visit Stony Brook, another boutique-style winery where tastings are held by owners Nigel and Joy in their home, a wonderfully informal and personal experience (tel. 021/876-2182).
Huguenot Road intersects with Lambrecht Road at a T-junction at the base of the Franschhoek Mountains. Opposite is the French Huguenot Monument, erected in honor of the French Protestant refugees who settled here between 1688 and 1700. Its three arches symbolize the Holy Trinity. Turn left to drive the Franschhoek Pass for lunch at La Petite Ferme -- a must, if you can get a table.
