New Brunswick's provincial capital is a compact, historic city of brick and concrete that unfolds lazily along the banks of the wide Saint John River. The handsome buildings, broad streets, and wide sidewalks make the place feel more like a big, tidy village than a small city. Keep an eye out for two icons that mark Fredericton: the stately elm trees that have stubbornly resisted Dutch elm disease and still shade the occasional park and byway, and the Union Jack, which you'll occasionally see fluttering from various buildings, attesting to long-standing historic ties with the Loyalists who shaped the city.
The city can be seen as divided into three zones: the malls and motels atop the hills and near the Trans-Canada Highway; the impressive, Georgian-style University of New Brunswick on the hillside just south of town; and the downtown itself, with its casual blend of modern and historic buildings.
Most visitors focus on downtown. The main artery -- where you'll find the bulk of the attractions and restaurants -- is Queen Street, which parallels the river between 1 and 2 blocks inland. An ill-considered four-lane road separates much of downtown from the river, but you can still reach water's edge via the Green, a pathway that follows the river, or by crossing a pedestrian bridge at the foot of Carleton Street.
Once you've seen the water, it's time to get to know the place. With a population of roughly 80,000, Fredericton is low-key and appealing in an understated way. There's really no single must-see attraction here, but the collective impact of strolling the streets gives the traveler a full sense of history and place. My advice: If eastern Canada's allure for you is the shimmering sea, deep woods, and wide open spaces, you won't miss much by bypassing Fredericton. If your passions include history -- especially the history of British settlement in North America -- then it's well worth the detour.
