Your best bets are in the traffic-reduced Ludwigstrasse in Partenkirchen and in the almost traffic-free zone from Richard-Strauss-Platz to Marienplatz in Garmisch. A vast array of stores sells boots, boutique items, clothing, jewelry, art, antiques, and more. If you like traditional Bavarian dress but don't want to spend a lot of money, head for Loisachtaler, Burgstrasse 20 (tel. 08821/52390). Here, Petra Ostler has assembled the area's finest collection of secondhand clothing. Take your pick: a Jägermeister loden coat, an alpine hat with pheasant feathers, or a cast-off dirndl. They all look like new.