Mario Rivaro

Wonderfully located amid the Renaissance splendor of the nearby Via Garibaldi, this old institution does a brisk business with a loyal clientele from nearby banks and consulates, especially at lunch and in the early evening. The decor is pleasantly reminiscent of a ship’s cabin, with inlaid wood panels and long wooden tables lit by brass lanterns. Many of the attentive, white-jacketed waiters have worked here their entire careers. Ligurian classics such as trenette al pesto con patate e fagiolini (pasta with pesto, potatoes, and beans) and a zuppa da pesce made with local fish emerge from the kitchen.

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