Genoa Attractions

A Cumulative Ticket  -- Admission to Genoa’s major palaces and art galleries is grouped together on the Card Musei (12€ for 1 day, 20€ for 2 days; or 15€ and 25€ respectively including unlimited use of the city’s public transport). The card includes entrance to the principal palaces, cathedral treasury of San Lorenzo, the Galleria di Palazzo Bianco, the Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, and a handful of other museums around town, plus a discount on admission to the aquarium, the Galata museum, and movie theaters. Pick it up at any city museum, the airport tourist office, or in one of several bookstores downtown (www.visitgenoa.it).

Historic Squares & Streets

Piazza Dante -- Though most of the square is made of 1930s office buildings, one end is bounded by the twin round towers of the reconstructed Porta Soprana, a town gate built in 1155. The main draw, though, is the small house (rebuilt in the 18th c.), still standing a bit incongruously in a tidy little park below the gate, said to have belonged to Christopher Columbus’s father, who was a weaver and gatekeeper (whether young Christopher lived here is open to debate). Also in the tiny park are the reconstituted 12th-century cloisters of Sant’Andrea, a convent that was demolished nearby.

Piazza di San Matteo -- This beautiful little square is the domain of the city’s most acclaimed family, the seagoing Dorias, who ruled Genoa until the end of the 18th century. The church they built on the piazza in the 12th century, San Matteo, contains the crypt of the Dorias’ most illustrious son, Andrea, and the cloisters are lined with centuries-old plaques heralding the family’s many accomplishments, which included drawing up Genoa’s constitution in 1529. The Doria palaces surround the church in a stunning array of loggias and black-and-white-striped marble facades denoting the homes of honored citizens—Andrea’s at no. 17, Lamda’s at no. 15, Branca’s at no. 14.

Via Garibaldi -- Many of Genoa’s museums and other sights are clustered on and around this street, also known as Strada Nuova, one of the most beautiful in Italy. Here Genoa’s wealthy families built palaces in the 16th and 17th centuries. Aside from the art collections housed in the Galleria di Palazzo Bianco and Galleria di Palazzo Rosso, the street contains a wealth of other treasures. The Palazzo Podesta, at no. 7, hides one of the city’s most beautiful fountains in its courtyard, and the Palazzo Tursi, at no. 9, now housing municipal offices, proudly displays artifacts of famous Genoans: letters written by Christopher Columbus and the violin of Nicolo Paganini (which is still played on special occasions). Visitors are allowed free entry to the buildings when the offices are open.

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Genoa Shopping

The Mercato Orientale, Genoa’s sprawling indoor food market, evokes the days when ships brought back spices and other commodities from the ends of the earth. Still a boisterous affair and an excellent place to stock up on olives, herbs, fresh fruit, and other Ligurian products, it is held Monday through Saturday 7:30am to 1pm and 3:30 to 7:30pm, with entrances on Via XX Settembre and Via Galata (about halfway between Piazza de Ferrari at the edge of the Old Town and Stazione Brignole). The district just north of the market (especially Via San Vincenzo and Via Colombo) is a gourmand’s dream, with many bakeries, pasticcerie (pastry shops), and stores selling pasta and cheese, wine, olive oil, and other foodstuffs.

Genoa Nightlife

The Old Town, some parts of which are sketchy in broad daylight, is especially unseemly at night. Confine late-hour prowls in this area to the well-trafficked streets such as Via San Lorenzo and Via Garibaldi. On the edges of the Old Town, good places to walk at night are around the waterfront, Piazza Fontane Marose, Piazza de Ferrari, and Piazza delle Erbe, where many bars and clubs are located.

Performing Arts -- Genoa has two major venues for culture: the restored Teatro Carlo Felice, Piazza de Ferrari (www.carlofelice.it; (tel) 010-589-329), which is home to Genoa’s opera company, and the modern Teatro Stabile di Genova (www.teatrostabilegenova.it; (tel) 010-53-421), on Piazza Borgo Pila near Stazione Brignole, which hosts concerts, dance, and other cultural programs.