Nightlife

Some say that Glasgow today -- and not Edinburgh -- is the center of contemporary culture in Scotland. It is an arguable, not to say locally controversial, point of view, however.

But there is no doubt that Glasgow has seen the most progress since the middle of the 20th century, when the shipping boom went bust, giving way to an image of profound decline that began to be reversed in the 1980s. Its local arts scene was always alive, however.

Although the Scottish capital to the east is home to the country's national art galleries and museums, Glasgow is where the respected and accomplished Scottish Opera and Scottish Ballet companies -- as well as the Scottish National Orchestra -- are based. It is also the city where young talent is nurtured at the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama. There are several theaters, including two that rank high across the U.K. for staging groundbreaking drama, the Citizens and the Tron. Even more experimental performance can be seen at the Arches and Tramway.

But for all this "high art," Glasgow has the reputation as an unsurpassed spawning ground in Scotland for pop and rock groups, such as Franz Ferdinand or Belle and Sebastian. The Barrowland, a former ballroom, has to be one of the best (that is, sweaty and vibrating) venues in all of Britain for seeing live contemporary music. Recently, the company that runs the well-known Brixton Academy converted an old movie house into the Academy on the city's Southside, while in the city center another former cinema, ABC, was redeveloped into a good music venue in 2005. Plus, two bars, King Tut's Wah Wah Hut (where the band Oasis was apparently "discovered") and Nice 'n' Sleazy, give Glasgow a pair of small venues with performance spaces that would rival those typical of Manhattan's East Village.

Then, of course, there are the city's many pubs and bars to consider. Most are friendly places and don't be surprised if the locals strike up a conversation. Remember, all indoor public places, including bars, are now completely nonsmoking. For a complete rundown of what is happening in Glasgow, pick up a copy of The List, a biweekly magazine available at all major newsstands and book shops.

Theater -- Although hardly competition for a drama giant such as London, Glasgow's theater scene is equal to, if not a step ahead of, Edinburgh's. Young Scottish playwrights often make their debuts here, and you're likely to see anything from Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath to Beckett's Waiting for Godot to Romeo and Juliet done in Edwardian dress.

Finding Out What's On -- For a complete run-down of what is happening in the city, pick up a copy of The List, a biweekly magazine available at all major newsstands and book shops. It reviews, previews, and gives the details of the arts and events in Glasgow and Edinburgh.

Late-Night Eats -- Famished at 4 minutes past midnight? The options in Glasgow are fairly well focused on Sauchiehall Street. Try Canton Express (407 Sauchiehall St.; tel. 0141/332-0145), which looks as if it belongs on some side street in Hong Kong. It's nothing fancy -- just fast Chinese food. Open daily until 4am.

Several Indian restaurants are open until 1am, but a couple trump the lot by staying open until 4am. Charcoals is in the city center (26 Renfield St.; tel. 0141/221-9251), while Spice Gardens is on the southern bank of the River Clyde (Clyde Place near Bridge St.; tel. 0141/429-4422).

Dance Clubs -- Glasgow has one of the most active dance club scenes in Great Britain. Listed below are just a few selected venues. In local parlance, "venues" are distinct from the actual "clubs" -- such as Optimo (electro-clash), Manga (drum and bass), or Pressure (house and techno) -- which are associated with a specific style, DJ, or team of DJs. They can move around to different venues. It all makes perfect sense to those in the know.

Gay & Lesbian Glasgow -- Glasgow and its environs are said to have the largest concentration of gays and lesbians in the U.K. outside of London. The Merchant City is the only identifiable district in the city where gay and lesbian community is particularly concentrated, dubbed the "gay triangle."