Shopping

After London, the capital of Great Britain and a city at least ten times its size, Glasgow apparently has the second most retail space in all of the U.K. It is a shopping mecca for everyone in the west of the country and, apparently, a reason for people to visit from northern England, too, as it is not as far away as the shops of London's Soho. The mainstream area for retail therapy is defined by the predominantly pedestrian zones of Argyle Street, Buchanan Street, and Sauchiehall Street, which join together and form a Z shape right in the heart of the city. But for more unique shops and fashions, it pays to venture into the Merchant City and the West End. And perhaps the city's most unique shopping experience is at the flea-market-like stalls at the weekend Barras market in the East End.

In general, shops in the city center are open from 9am until 6pm. Be warned, they tend to close sharply, regardless of the number of potential shoppers that are still out on the sidewalks. But in 2006, the city was considering later opening hours for city center stores in order to compete with the shopping developments on Glasgow's periphery, which are open daily until 8pm. Thursday is the traditional evening for businesses to stay open until 8pm in the heart of town. Most established stores are now open in the afternoon on Sunday, too.

Unless otherwise indicated, the shops listed are in the commercial center of Glasgow and are within walking distance of the Buchanan Street or St. Enoch underground stations.

Bring That Passport! -- Take along your passport when you go shopping in case you make a purchase that entitles you to a VAT (value-added tax) refund.

The Shopping Scene

For most visitors from abroad, Glasgow prices are not going to be a major selling point. In recent years, the British currency, pound sterling, has been trading strongly against other major currencies, such as the U.S. dollar or the euro (which most of Britain's partners in the European Union now use). The good news is that prices for most products in Scotland have been stable since the mid-1990s and in some cases -- for example, clothes -- prices have come down in real terms. Nevertheless, many items carry the same numerical price in pounds as they would in American dollars. For example, a digital camera that costs $300 in New York might well be priced £300 in Glasgow, making it 50% to 100% more expensive.

Best Buys -- Among the few retail goods that are high quality and priced competitively are fine wool knits, particularly cashmere sweaters -- or as the Scots prefer, "jumpers" -- and scarves. Anything produced within the country (with the exception of whisky, which is taxed as heavily as all alcoholic products) should be less expensive than at home: from smoked salmon and shortbread to Caithness glass, those beguiling clear paper weights with swirling, colorful designs. Finally, given the number of artists in the country, getting an original piece of art to bring home might represent the most value for money.

Shopping Complexes

Princes Square (Buchanan St.; tel. 0141/204-1685; www.princessquare.co.uk) is the city's most stylish and upmarket shopping center. Within a modernized and renovated Victorian building, the mall has many specialty stores, men's and women's fashion outlets as well as restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Nearby, between Argyle Street and the River Clyde is the St. Enoch Shopping Centre (tel. 0141/204-3900; www.stenoch.com), whose merchandise is less expensive and a lot less posh than what you'll find at Princes Square. It resembles a fairly conventional indoor mall with a couple major department stores and a food court at one end.

If you're after a fancy watch or gold ring, go to the Argyll Arcade, the main entrance to which is at 30 Buchanan St. Even if the year of its construction (1827) wasn't posted above the entrance, you'd still know that this collection of shops beneath a curved glass ceiling is historic. The L-shaped, Parisian style arcade contains one of the largest concentrations of retail jewelers, both antique and modern, in all of Europe. It's considered lucky to purchase a wedding band here.

The most recent contribution to mall shopping in the city center is the Buchanan Galleries (tel. 0141/333-9898; www.buchanangalleries.co.uk), at the top of Buchanan Street. Completed in 1999, this mammoth development is hardly ground-breaking but it does include the rightfully respected John Lewis department store.

On the western outskirts of town, the Braehead Shopping Centre (tel. 0141/885-1441; www.braehead.co.uk) opened most recently and somewhat controversially, as it appears to be taking people away from the city center. Its major draw is a sprawling Ikea store.

Trawling the Stalls -- The Barras, held Saturday and Sunday 9am to 5pm, takes place about .8km ( 1/2 mile) east of Glasgow's George Square. This century-old market has traders selling their wares in stalls and shops. You can not only browse for that special treasure but also become a part of Glasgow life. Alas, as the old traders have died off, younger hawkers are not replacing them. And the authorities have had their hands full with the sale of black-market goods, especially tobacco, whose proceeds fund organized crime. Still, where else can you see an auction of 4.5 kilograms (10 lb.) of chicken legs, with a pound of bacon thrown in for free? The nearby Paddy's Market, by the rail arches on Shipbank Lane, operates daily if you'd like to see an old-fashioned slice of Glaswegian street vending.