Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa
In the unlikely event that you will stay this close to the capital, two good options are reviewed: The Marriott is an upmarket resort situated on the outskirts of the city (avoid Cidade de Goa, which is looking tired and is overpriced), while Panjim Pousada, Panjim Inn, and Panjim People's, situated in the heart of the Fontainhas neighborhood, have more character; Pousada is also very affordable.
North of Panjim
Naturally, Goa offers a wide range of accommodations, but the luxury resorts tend to offer the best proximity to secluded beaches. If you're design-conscious and keen on a "non-hotel" experience, Goa's best options by far are Nilaya Hermitage and Pousada Tauma, both reviewed below, or -- if you're looking for something more mid-range -- Presa di Goa, also reviewed below. If the beach is not a priority, we recommend these options for their tranquil surroundings. Another good choice is the two suites (Rs 1,000-Rs 2,000/$23-$46) at Hotel Bougainvillea (tel. 0832/227-3270 or -3271) at Anjuna (closed May-Oct); book the one with its own garden. Inherited by Betina Faria, it was built by her grandfather and is consequently also known as Grandpa's Inn. The small accommodations are quiet and cool; there's a lovely garden, swimming pool, and old pool table. At Goa's very northernmost point is the rather remote enclave of Tiracol, where the owners of Nilaya Hermitage have restored seven rooms in their characteristic Euro-chic style. Although the views from Hotel Tiracol Fort (Querim, Pernem; tel. 02366/22-7631; nilaya@sancharnet.in; Rs 3,480/$80 standard, Rs 5,480/$125 suite) are outstanding and the food superb, you may find life a little dull (no pool, and the beach is a 3-min. ferry away) and isolated (90 min. from Baga). However, it's hard to beat if you want to really get away from it all.
South of Panjim
South Goa has more five-star resorts than north Goa, and the number is added to annually (raising the hackles of eco-watchdogs). The upmarket newcomer farthest south is humongous InterContinental The Grand Resort, which sprawls over 34 hectares (85 acres) and an exclusive stretch of beach; its 255 luxurious suites are currently being offered at good rates (from $200). At the other end, closest to Panjim, with the biggest pool in Goa, is the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa (tel. 0832/272-1234; www.goa.park.hyatt.com; from $300) -- spread over 18 hectares (45 acres) on the virgin beach of Arrossim. Midway down the south coast are Radisson White Sands Resort (tel. 0832/272-7272; from $250) at Varca Beach; and Taj Exotica at Benaulim. Note that all of these resorts are very child-friendly, often with separate pools and activities, and babysitters are always available.
The beach of Palolem is one of the last areas of south Goa free of resorts; here you'll have to venture back to nature at one of many budget options, or cozy up at the wonderful Bhakti Kutir eco-resort.
