Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa
In the unlikely event that you will stay this close to the capital, we've reviewed the best option below. The Marriott, an upmarket resort situated on the outskirts of the city could be another option, but Panjim Pousada, Panjim Inn, and Panjim People's, situated in the heart of the Fontainhas neighborhood, have more character; Pousada is also very affordable. Most of the following are open for lunch and dinner.
North of Panjim
Goa offers a wide range of accommodations, but the luxury resorts tend to offer the best proximity to secluded beaches. If you're design-conscious, want to be relatively close to the beach and in the heart of the tourist zone -- yet keen on a boutique "non-hotel" experience, Goa's best option is Pousada Tauma (reviewed below). If you're looking for something more mid-range, head for Presa di Goa (reviewed below). But if you're here to simply enjoy the beach, Elsewhere (reviewed below), is our top choice. Away from the crowds, it has an absolutely stunning beach, a lovely, simple house to stay in, and great food. And if you want to party, you can probably find something 15 to 20 minutes away.
Another good budget-oriented choice is the two suites (Rs 1,000-Rs 2,000/$24-$49/£12-£25) at Hotel Bougainvillea (tel. 0832/227-3270 or -3271; www.granpasinn.com; doubles from Rs 1,400/$34/£17) at Anjuna; book the one with its own garden. Inherited by Betina Faria, it was built by her grandfather and consequently is also known as Grandpa's Inn. The small accommodations are quiet and cool; there's a lovely garden, swimming pool, and old pool table. Both short and long sessions of Brahmani yoga are held on the premises. If you plan on staying anywhere near Asvem/Morjim, drop in for a very Zen experience at Ku (tel. 93-2612-3570), run by Marie and Chris -- it's a makeshift place that is dismantled every year when the season ends. Ku is very small, beautiful, and refreshing. At Goa's very northernmost point is the rather remote enclave of Tiracol, where the owners of Nilaya Hermitage have restored seven rooms at Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel (Querim, Pernem; tel. 02366/22-7631; 130€ ($177/£89) standard double, 170€ ($232/£117) suite; rates inclusive of taxes, breakfast, and Goan dinner). Although the views are outstanding and the food superb, you may find life a little dull (no pool, and the beach is a 3-min. ferry away) and isolated (90 min. from Baga). However, it's hard to beat if you want to really get away from it all.
South of Panjim
South Goa has more five-star resorts than north Goa, and the number is added to annually (raising the hackles of eco-watchdogs). The upmarket newcomer farthest south is the humongous InterContinental The Grand Goa Resort, which sprawls over 34 hectares (85 acres) and an exclusive stretch of beach; its 255 luxurious suites are currently being offered at relatively good rates (from $280/£141). At the other end, closest to Panjim, boasting the biggest pool in Goa, is the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa (tel. 0832/272-1234; www.goa.park.hyatt.com; from Rs 14,500/$354/£179) -- spread over 18 hectares (45 acres) on the virgin beach of Arrossim. Midway down the south coast are the Radisson White Sands Resort (tel. 0832/272-7272; from $250/£126) at Varca Beach; and Taj Exotica at Benaulim. Note that all of these resorts are characterless but very child-friendly, often with separate pools and activities, and babysitters are always available.
