Things To Do in Goa

Exploring Old Goa

The once-bustling Goan capital is said to have been the richest and most splendid city in Asia during the late 16th and early 17th centuries, before a spate of cholera and malaria epidemics forced a move in 1759. Today, this World Heritage Site is tepid testament to the splendor it once enjoyed. The tranquility behind this well-preserved tourist site (barring the grubby stands selling refreshments and tacky souvenirs) belies the fact that it was built on plunder and forced conversions, though you'll see little evidence (like the basalt architraves) of the mass destruction of the Hindu temples initiated by fervent colonialists. Besides, it's remarkable to witness the scores of Catholic Indians who turn up to worship in some of the country's most venerated cathedrals.

The entire area can easily be explored on foot because the most interesting buildings are clustered together. To the northwest is the Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 in commemoration of the arrival of Vasco da Gama in India. Nearby, the Corinthian-styled Church of St. Cajetan (daily 9am-5:30pm) was built in 1651 by Italian friars of the Theatine order, who modeled it after St. Peter's in Rome. Under the church is a crypt in which embalmed Portuguese governors were kept before being shipped back to Lisbon -- in 1992, three forgotten cadavers were removed. St. Cajetan's is a short walk down the road from Adil Shah's Gate, a simple lintel supported by two black basalt columns.

Southwest of St. Cajetan's are the highlights of Old Goa: splendid, behemoth Sé Cathedral (Mon-Sat 9am-6:30pm; Sun 11:30am-6:30pm), which took nearly 80 years to build (in local laterite stone) and is said to be larger than any church in Portugal; and the Basilica of Bom Jesus. The so-called Miraculous Cross, housed in a box in a chapel behind a decorative screen, was brought here from a Goan village after a vision of Christ was seen on it -- apparently a single touch (there is a hole in the glass for just this purpose) will cure the sick. The surviving tower of the Sé's whitewashed Tuscan exterior houses the Golden Bell, whose tolling indicated commencement of the auto da fés, brutal public spectacles in which suspected heretics were tortured and burnt at the stake. Nearby, the Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi (now an archaeological museum: Rs 5; Sat-Thurs 10am-5pm) has a floor of gravestones and coats of arms; notice that the images of Mary and Christ are unusually dark-skinned.

The Central Coast

A Trip Down Goa's Architectural Memory Lane -- Goa's unique architecture has to some extent been well preserved, so much so that -- away from the coastal belt, toward the interiors as well as in Panjim, Mapusa, and Margao -- you'll find entire lanes and villages of beautiful old houses, some crumbling, others restored but all offering great insights into the original inhabitants and their status in society. To prove that Goa isn't just about lounging on beaches and stomping on the dance floor, there are a couple of ways to get a close-up look at some colonial-era architecture. If you're interested in decoding buildings, or in exploring some of Goa's historic neighborhoods and villages, contact Heta Pandit of The Heritage Network (tel. 98-2212-8022; www.heritagenetworkindia.com) or pick up a copy of Walking in Goa (Eminence Designs Pvt. Ltd.) or Houses of Goa (Architecture Autonomous). The network also organizes events in historic homes, including festive dinners with traditional entertainment. In Loutolim (10km/6 1/4 miles north of Margao), you can tour the Araujo Alvares family home Casa Araujo Alvares (www.casaaraujoalvares.com; arrangements through Loutolim's Ancestral Goa Museum; tel. 0832/277-7034; Tues-Sun 9am-1pm and 2-6pm), while 13km (8 miles) west lies the old Portuguese village of Chandor and the impressive Casa de Braganza, Goa's largest residence. The two-story facade of this Indo-Portuguese mansion -- which practically takes up an entire street -- features 28 balconies fronted by a lush, narrow garden. The land-owning Braganzas rose to prominence during the 17th century and today are divided into two clans, the Pereira-Braganzas and the Menezes-Braganzas, who occupy separate wings of the house. The large, high-ceilinged rooms (including a 250-year-old library) are filled with original antiques, rosewood four-poster beds, mosaic floors, and Belgian glass chandeliers. Sun-lit galleries and parlors are filled with bric-a-brac, and French windows open onto an interior garden. You can arrange to have a private tour conducted by Mrs. Braganza (tel. 0832/278-4201; Rs 100 per visitor); concentrate on the west wing, which is in the best condition.

Lights! Camera! Carnival!

Each year in February, during the festivities leading up to Lent (a 40-day period of fasting that's carefully observed by Goa's large Catholic community), the people of Goa get down for 3 days and nights of hedonistic revelry as King Momo commands them to party hard. Carnival, Goa's most famous festival, is a Latin-inspired extravaganza of drinking and dancing that traces its roots from ancient Roman and Grecian ritual feasts. Cities and towns come under the spell of colorful parades, dances, floats, balls, and bands, concluding with the red-and-black dance at Panjim's Club National. Celebrations of a different sort happen much later in the year when filmmakers and stars congregate for the annual International Film Festival of India (http://iffi.nic.in), held in Panjim, for 10 great days of film-frenzied action. The 40th annual festival happened in 2009 from late November through early December. And if you are in Goa over the hectic New Year period, you might want to at least check out some part of Sunburn, the massive music festival that started here in 2007 and keeps revelers supplied with 3 days of international standard dance music (www.sunburn-festival.com).

North Goa

Besides the vibrant markets, north Goa has several stores worth checking out. Casa Goa is a stylish boutique featuring luxuriously comfortable fashion items by celebrated Goan designers Wendell Rodricks, Rajesh Pratap Singh, and Brigitte Singh as well as local artwork, silk drapes, restored furniture, a variety of antiques, and prints of Mario Miranda's cartoons (Cobra Vaddo, Calangute-Baga Rd.; tel. 0832/228-1048). Then take a look at Leela Art Palace nearby; with any luck, proprietor Ravi will be in. You might find yourself agreeing to accompany him on an exotic journey into some of the country's remotest regions, where he regularly treks to source tribal art. Also in Calangute, Subodh Kerkar Art Gallery, run by Goa's well-known watercolorist, showcases contemporary Indian art including ceramics, hand-painted chests, and Rajasthani sculptures (Gauro Vaddo; tel. 0832/227-6017). Each Tuesday, an interesting classical dance and music performance is held at the gallery (6:45-8pm; Rs 300).

Located in a 200-year-old Portuguese mansion, Sangolda is the lifestyle boutique venture by Claudia and Hari Ajwani, the dynamic duo behind the beautiful Nilaya Hermitage and Fort Tiracol hotels; here you can shop for unusual home accessories and furniture sourced from all over India -- from Keralan rattan loungers to Rajasthani chests. Attached is a gallery-cum-coffee-shop (E2-6 Chogm Rd., Sangolda; tel. 0832/240-9310). Design junkies should also definitely make an effort to visit Monsoon Heritage, a contemporary studio created by internationally renowned designers Yahel Chirinian and Doris Zacheres (selected as one of the 23 most happening designers in the world by UrbanO magazine), who pair huge discarded tropical trees with mirrors and glass to create exclusive design pieces for the (very) rich and famous. You'll find their showrooms in Paris and Santa Monica, but their main base (and inspiration) is right here (601 Fernand Wado, Porvorim, Bardez; tel. 0832/651-5298; www.monsoonheritage.com). Another unique duo is Sonja Weder and Thomas Schnider, who use eco-friendly materials as much as possible and create some very striking articles ranging from furniture to lotus-leaf lazy Susans and a whole range of wall objects and gorgeous lamp shades -- all of it available at Soto Décor (Sotohaus, 1266/f, Anna Vaddo, Candolim; tel. 98-2298-3321; www.sotodecor.com). Nearby is a fun boutique called Happily Unmarried (tel. 93-2512-2150), where you can pick humorous knickknacks -- strictly for singles. Janota is the label for the unconventional footwear of Edward Pinto (Janota, Adleia Aurino, Povorim; tel. 0832/241-2129; www.janotagoa.com). He and his designer wife, Angela, have a seasonal store called "The Haystack" in Arpora (10am-8pm), while their studio is at Aldeia Aurino (near Damian de Goa, Porvorim, Bardez; tel. 0832/241-2129; 9am-7pm). They also have a stall at Ingo's Saturday Nite Bazaar. If you love shoes, make every effort to pick up a pair of Pinto's.

Eco-crusaders should make every effort to visit Earthworm (264/79, First Floor, Green Valley, Alto Porvorim; tel. 0832/241-0871; earthwormgoa@gmail.com), conceived by a pair of nature-loving Goan entrepreneurs looking to put the hype around sustainable lifestyles into action. Their green store sells environment-friendly products (read: low impact, organic, recycled) and local crafts, and disseminates ideas on sustainable living and conservation

Finally, for bibliophiles, Literati (E/1-282, Gaura Vaddo, Calangute; tel. 0832/227-7740; www.literati-goa.com) is the best bookstore in the state, with tons of atmosphere, too. You can sit for hours in the terrific book cafe and read or browse or buy secondhand as well as newly published works, while at the same time enjoying a delicious brownie or a tall glass of chilled kokum (fruit drink). Ask owner Divya Kapur about any upcoming events like poetry or book readings and writing workshops.

Shopping the Global Village Markets -- Anjuna is the site of Goa's Wednesday market, where a nonstop trance soundtrack sets the scene and 1,000 stalls sell everything from futuristic rave gear to hammocks that you can string up between two palm trees on the nearby beach. It's a wonderful place to meet people from all over the world as well as Rajasthanis, Gujaratis, Tibetans -- even drought-impoverished Karnataka farmers with "fortune-telling" cows. It's a bit like London's Camden, but everyone's tanned and the weather's almost always wonderful. Come the weekend, Goa's global residents have traditionally headed for either of the two Saturday Night Bazaars -- Ingo's or Mackie's -- where most of the spending has always seemed to involve liquor and food. In Arpora, Ingo's is on a larger scale -- but, according to rumors, no longer run by Ingo himself, but by the owner of the grounds upon which the market was established -- and both dole out essentially the same ingredients of live music, eclectic cuisine, and shops galore selling semi-precious stones, paintings, books, clothes, music, and handicrafts churned out by long-term international visitors. There have long been disputes between locals and the organizers of these markets, however, so they frequently close down or relocate; best to ask someone local for the latest gossip. In any case, the more interesting markets are the local ones. Once a week, folk from villages all across Goa breeze into Mapusa for the Friday Market, where they set up large tables groaning under the weight of extraordinarily large-size vegetables, strings of homemade pork sausages, basketfuls of kokum, pickles like chepnim and miscut made out of tender mangoes, prawn balchao and Bombay duck pickles, a freshly baked assortment of Goan breads, all kinds of confectionary goodies like bebinca and dodol, guava cheese, and wines. Of course, the market is just as packed with mundane items ranging from knockoff designer underwear to masonry bits and cheap plastic slippers. If you have space to take home a souvenir, look for the red rooster water jug -- you'll find one in every Goan home, ostensibly to chase away evil spirits. When you're pooped from shopping, drop into Café Xaviers (opposite the banana section), which sells refreshingly cold coffee shakes and delicious Goan sausage with poee (flat Goan bread). Another reason to come is the interesting Other India Bookstore (next to New Mapusa Clinic; tel. 0832/226-3306; www.otherindiabookstore.com), which stocks up on academic books related to issues like the environment, agriculture, and spirituality. On Thursdays, there's a lively market in Pernem, in the far north of Goa -- it's pretty much undiscovered by tourists, so an altogether enchanting experience.

Panjim & Old Goa

For authentic Goan souvenirs, proceed to Velha Goa Galleria (tel. 0832/242-6628) in Fountainhas, Panjim, for azulejos, attractive Portuguese-style hand-painted tiles and ceramics. They are happy to pack these delicate items carefully so that they survive the journey home.

Fashion junkies will love the Wendell Rodricks Design Space (158 Campal, near Luis Gomes Garden; tel. 0832/223-8177; www.wendellrodricks.com). Wendell believes in affordable designer wear, and his store has everything from evening gowns to casual wear. What makes his collection stand out is the emphasis on organic fabrics -- his cottons are naturally dyed, too, using vinegar, onion, turmeric, indigo, and guava leaves, and everything is preshrunk. Then there's Sôsa's (E-245 Rua de Ourem; tel. 0832/222-8063; Mon-Sat 10am-7:15pm), a trendy fashion store stocking couture by Goan designer Savio Jon (who makes relaxed, pretty, summery cotton dresses and very elegant men's shirts as well as other young and rising designers. Barefoot -- The Home Store (31st January Rd.; tel. 0832/243-6815) stocks some beautiful and very affordable glassware, including some lovely vases in extraordinary shapes; they also carry homeware, handicrafts, and clothing for men and women. You can browse quality homeware, textiles and furniture at Fusionaccess (Dias House, 13/32 Rua de Ormuz; tel. 0832/665-0342; www.fusionaccess.com), located in a building opposite the Ferry Wharf. There are framed vintage posters and photos, cushion covers, wonderful textiles for curtains, and rather unusual mesh tower and mesh ball candles worth asking about. Broadway (1st Floor, Ashirvada Bldg., 18 June Rd.; tel. 0832/664-7038; www.bbcbooks.net) is Goa's largest bookstore with a far-reaching range. And, if by the end of your stay you're sufficiently hooked on Portuguese-Goan music, head for Rock & Raga (June Rd., in Rizvi Tower; tel. 0832/564-3320), which has a good selection of local bands.

Psychedelic Journeys: What Next for the Late, Great Goan Party?

Rave parties are now almost as synonymous with Goa as hippie culture, but there's been much recent hullabaloo about the death of Goa's hardcore party scene -- many bemoan the fact that they missed what all the hype was about, while generally locals can finally breathe a sigh of collective relief for the end of the noise, the drugs, the mischief-making, and the (in some minds, scandalous) reputation Goa has always had as an alternative hippie enclave. And, sure, the party scene has definitely calmed down a bit, but it has by no means come to an abrupt and grinding halt, even if the late night noise ban has quelled a lot of the mania. It's probably safe to say that the parties have gone deeper underground -- and, in an entirely wrong spirit, moved into city-style clubs. If you end up partying the night away in a club, you're probably missing the point, since the Goan trance scene has always been about dancing under the stars or outdoors through the day, surrounded by Goa's considerable beauty and energized by music, nature and good vibes. Times are, of course, a-changing.

If you want to attend one of the winter gatherings, once known as full moon parties (but now as likely to happen by day in a remote location), you'll probably have to ask around at the shacks (at Vagator, Anjuna, Arambol, or Palolem). Location is often kept secret until late in the evening to avoid harassment from cops and generally disclosed only a few hours before the party starts. These underground dance and music parties start around 11pm and go till at least 8am. Various intoxicants are freely available and consumed (but they're very much illegal), and local women set up stalls outside selling chai and snacks. DJs play psychedelic trance music (the "Goan trance" that has become a global genre); ravers often dress up in old-fashioned costumes and wear rave belts and colorful clothes, all part of setting the mood for their psychedelic journey, which inevitably entails a lot of good-hearted mischief. Regulars insist that these are not just massive techno freak-outs where everybody is "tripping," but a mystical, devotional experience akin to a spiritual encounter.

In south Goa, the scene is compact enough to make finding the party quite straightforward, but in the north, you're going to need to put in some effort. A few obvious spots for picking up the scent of out-of-the-way parties are the Saturday Night Bazaar in Arpora, Anjuna's Wednesday Market, or the ever-popular Shore Bar. The latter is a party institution right on Anjuna beach; it really picks up on Wednesdays, when the market crowd redeploys here to continue the revelry, and the sunset scene is a virtual tourist cliché (albeit with a pretty cool crowd). Even cooler, though, is the other "institution:" Nine Bar, on top of a hill overlooking Ozran beach at Vagator. As the sun sinks to provide another classic moment, the DJs up the volume and furiously belt out deafening trance and psychedelic music -- a haven for trippers and a nightmare for the rest of the world, but only till around 10pm, when things shut down and it's time to move on. Aside from the obvious locations in north Goa, there are also good vibes (and a better crowd) in and around Palolem in the far south. Palolem is also where India's first so-called silent parties have really taken off -- you pick up a set of headphones and dance to the music, but the outside world doesn't have to hear a thing. Launched in 2008, the Silent Noise Headphone Parties (tel. 97-3093-5334; www.silentnoise.in) are a revolutionary answer to Goa's 10pm music ban. The parties happen Wednesday ("Retronica") and Saturday at Neptune's Point; revelers are provided with advanced wireless headsets that allow you to switch between each of the 3 DJs playing that night; founder Justin Mason (a DJ himself since the '80s) procures outstanding international as well as Indian DJs (look out for Ma Faizel, an icon of the hip Indian electro scene), and you're able to switch between house, trance, hip-hop or even rock tunes, spun simultaneously by different DJs. The venue comes with all the frills of the modern party era, including massage chairs and impeccable lighting. And, should you wish to tune out and engage in meaningful conversation for a moment, all you need to do is whip the headset off -- no need to scream at the top of your lungs to ask for a drink.

The most happening clubs competing to attract the who's who with great let-your-hair-down ambience, fabulous music, and terrific cuisine include Club Cubana (Arpora Hill; tel. 98-2323-2910) -- beautifully located atop a cliff with a swimming pool open at night and the focus on hip-hop and R&B music -- and legendary Tito's (tel. 98-2276-5002; www.titos.in). This local expire has been going for years and attracts anyone and everyone who's up for a party in a range of different-but-the-same venues (definitely nothing groundbreaking here); a good choice here is Mambo's, an open-air pub that's part of the Tito's franchise, where DJs spin 1980s rock music (but no trance). For a less rocking atmosphere accompanied by fairly good food, check out Kamaki (tel. 98-2327-6520; 6am-6pm recorded music, 6pm-6am DJ), a lounge bar up the road from Tito's that's open 24 hours. For an upmarket buzz, join the vibey, sexy-smart crowd at Shiro (tel. 0832/645-1718), the Candolim sibling of the ultrahip Mumbai restaurant-bar with a spectacular beachfront setting. Finally, although you should be cautious about planning a vacation here around New Years, since 2007, Goa has hosted the biggest music festival in Asia, Sunburn (www.sunburn-festival.com), for 3 days at the end of the year; check the website, though for specific dates, lineup, and venue.