Restaurants

Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa

Panjim is filled with shabby-looking "pure veg" udipi eating halls. If you're in the mood for an Indian snack or a quick cheap dish, aren't afraid to get your hands dirty, and feel like hanging with the locals, try one out; Vihar (31 Janeiro Rd.; tel. 0832/222-5744) is a good option. Opposite the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, George Restaurant is convenient; if a really spicy chorizo-style sausage appeals to you, order the Goan sausage. For more atmosphere, make a reservation at Luiz D'Souza's Hospedaria Venite (31st January Rd., Fontainhas; tel. 0832/242-5537), a tiny upstairs restaurant in a 200-year-old building where you can sit on the balcony and order wonderful Goan specialties (or try the delicious shrimp salsa and stuffed crab). Close by, in a narrow alley, is another popular and consequently slightly cramped restaurant, Viva Panjim (Hs No.178, Rua 31 de Janeiro; tel. 0832/242-2405), which has a decent menu at dirt-cheap prices. But if you're looking for a mix of Portuguese and Goan cuisine done to perfection, make a beeline for the small and cozy Horseshoe (Rua de Ourem; tel. 0832/243-1788). The menu is extensive and striking for its complete lack of vegetarian options.

Catering to a steady stream of tourists who are told that it's the best restaurant in town for North Indian cuisine, Delhi Darbar (M.G. Rd.; tel. 0832/222-2544) turns a heavy trade, but it's an unexciting experience. Instead, head across the Mandovi Bridge to Povorim where O'Coquiero's (near Water Tank; tel. 0832/241-7271) has been churning out traditional Goan food for decades (try the squid masala or chicken cafreal).

Down the road from the Goa Marriott Resort (which, incidentally, has a marvelous seafood restaurant, Simply Fish, an outdoor venue overlooking the bay) is Mum's Kitchen (Martin's Building, D. B. Marg, Miramar; tel. 98-2217-5559). It has a laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere and does wonderful crab xec-xec (cooked in thick, spicy coconut gravy) and pomfret recheado (fish stuffed with hot spices and pan-fried). The owner, Rony Martins, not only invites you to examine his kitchen for standards of hygiene and his fish for freshness, he is on a mission to revive authentic Goan cuisine. He sources and adopts old "grandma" recipes and has started "A Cry of Goa": an exercise to save Goan cuisine.

To sample traditional Goan sweets while wandering Fontainhas, pop into Confeitaria 31 de Janueiro, one of the oldest bakeries in the state (31 Janeiro Rd.; tel. 0832/222-5791).

The Unique Flavors of Goa -- If you don't know your xacuti from your baboti, here's a short guide: Chicken cafreal is chicken marinated in green herb and garlic marinade and then fried. Vindaloo is a curry usually made with pork and marinated in vinegar, garlic, chilies, and assorted spices. Prawn Balchao is a sweetish shrimp preserve made with spices and coconut feni. Ambot-tik is a hot curry soured with kokum berries and usually made with baby shark. The state's favorite fish, kingfish (isvon) recheado, is stuffed with chilies and spices blended in vinegar. Xacuti is a coconut-based masala; baboti is a sweet and spicy ground-beef dish. Sorpotel -- not for the fainthearted -- is traditionally a spicy concoction of pork, offal, feni, vinegar, red chilies, and spices. Bebinca is the traditional layered dessert made with lots of eggs and coconut milk. Dodol is made with jaggery (sugar) and should always be accompanied with vanilla ice cream. Goa is famous for its cashew nuts available in many forms; get the roasted salted variety (great with any drink) from Zantye's or Kajuwala in Panjim. Kokum (fruit of a plant by the same name), served as a syrupy juice, is a delightful thirst quencher; when mixed with coconut milk, garlic, and salt, it becomes a digestive aid called sol kadi. Speaking of drinks, feni is the deceptively light alcoholic spirit distilled from the cashew fruit (or coconut); try it, but be wary.

North of Panjim

Beach-shack dining is one of the essential Goa experiences -- sipping feni while you feast on grilled tiger prawns or masala shark at unbelievable prices is a must. With at least 200 licensed seasonal shacks between Candolim and Baga, you certainly won't go hungry, but with names like Lover's Corner, Fawlty Towers, and Goan Waves, don't expect culinary magic. Best to stick to the following recommendations.

At Calangute, Souza Lobo's seafood enjoys a legendary reputation, and deservedly so. Reserve a table on the beachfront patio and order the tandoor kingfish and crab-stuffed papad, or the expensive but excellent grilled lobster or tiger prawns (tel. 0832/228-1234 or 0832/227-6463; reservations taken before 8pm; after that, wait in line). While in Baga, check out Casa Portuguesa (Baga Beach; tel. 0832/227-7024; closed Mon and May-Oct), set in a charming old bungalow near the beach; the chicken cafreal is highly recommended. Or stop at Fiesta (7/35 Saunta Vaddo; tel. 0832/227-9894) just for the ambience (and decent pizzas but slow service) or a pick from their dessert menu. It's perched on the sand dunes near Tito's and run by Yellow and Maneck Contractor. If you have a sweet tooth, Chocolatti (409A Fort Aguada Rd., Candolim; tel. 93-2610-3522) is simply irresistible when it comes to homemade chocolates and brownies.

A number of good restaurants can also be found along the stretch of road between Arpora Hill and Baga Creek, leading inland from Baga Beach. When Indian spices begin to take their toll, Lila Café (Baga River), a great breakfast and lunch cafe (and apparently where Gregory Peck, David Niven, and Roger Moore hung out when filming Sea of Wolves), is the perfect spot (with views of paddy fields and coconut groves) to enjoy a decent breakfast; a selection of breads and croissants is served with a variety of toppings. The fresh salads are also good, as is the catch of the day. Famous J & A's Little Italy (tel. 0832/228-2364 or 98-2313-9488; closed end of Apr to mid-Oct) is where Jamshed and Ayesha Madon serve fantastic pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and amazing organic salads in a great alfresco setting. During peak season there's always a long wait (well worth it), so do make reservations. The regalo di mare (prawns and squid in a tomato vinaigrette dressing served with pesto crostini) and crespelle coi gamberi (crepes stuffed with seafood) are personal favorites. Or try the delicious steaks or the perfect al dente pastas tossed in heavenly sauces.

Walking distance from Taj Fort Aguada are three restaurants commanding a fair amount of popularity -- Burmese Bomra's (reviewed below), the Swiss-Italian Santa Lucia (tel. 0832/651-5213), and the eclectic, slightly over-colorful Sweet Chilli (tel. 0832/247-9446). But the hottest new entry this side of Panjim is undoubtedly A Reverie (next to Hotel Goan Heritage; tel. 98-2317-4927) -- you can sit in the garden or indoors beneath high ceilings and chandeliers. The food is essentially modern European with delectable exotica like smoked French duck with truffles and spiced berry sorbet or home-cured beef with mustard ice cream. With plush sofas to sink into, it also serves as a lounge and offers a great selection of drinks -- all this at a price, of course, so come prepared to leave lighter in the pocket. Sublime (located near the Anjuna football field; tel. 98-2248-4051) offers fusion food and presentational styles that are quite difficult to classify, even for American owner Christopher (for example, he uses a French recipe for fish, which is accompanied by traditional Indian green lentils and an Italian sauce!). A reasonable, well-established alternative is Xavier's (near the flea market; tel. 0832/322-6086) -- it has a lovely ambience (with additional seating in the garden), and the seafood is always fresh and the lamb chops excellent. Finally, if you're in Anjuna and seriously in need of a pizza, drop in at Basilico (D'mello Vaddo, near Casa Anjuna; tel. 0832/227-3721). It's run by an Italian, which explains the authenticity and subtleties in flavor so often lacking in smaller restaurants. Farther north has its own share of shacks that may not be there the following season.

South of Panjim

The beach of Palolem is one of the last areas of south Goa that is free of resorts; here you'll have to venture back to nature at one of many budget options, or cozy up at the wonderful Bhakti Kutir eco-resort, reviewed below. Even if you've just come for the day, dine at Aahar, where you're served inexpensive, delicious local and organic health food under a giant cloth draped from the surrounding trees -- try the dal and red spinach, served with organic rice, coconut chutney, and fresh, nutty hummus; or sunflower seed and moong (mung) bean-sprout salad with steamed spinach, toasted nuts and seeds, and tofu, served with homemade whole-wheat rice-bread. The fish curry is light and not too spicy, made with coconut gravy, and is delicious mopped up with the millet chapati. Another popular place to eat is the Banyan Tree (not the same as the one in Taj Holiday Village) -- with Thai, Indian, Chinese, seafood, and Italian on offer and backed by a decent bar in a casual outdoor setting (tel. 98-5070-3662).