Goa's reputation for having some of the world's best beaches is well-deserved, but inevitable commercialization has taken its toll, with the infamous Baga-to-Calangute area (north of Panjim) now part of a tourist-infested strip of sun loungers, backed by beach shacks serving beer, cocktails, and fresh seafood -- the sort of packaged beach experience best avoided. A little north of Baga, Anjuna comes alive with parties and trance music during the winter, when full-moon festivals get the crowds howling. It also has a fabulous Wednesday market. Just north of Anjuna is lovely Vagator, with Chapora Fort overlooked by stark red cliffs. But the real northern paradise starts at Asvem, which has somehow managed to remain off the beaten tourist road. A little north of Asvem, Arambol, seductively far away from the package-tour masses, is one of the last refuges of hard-core hippies. Though there are no private beaches in Goa, the southern beaches generally become the private domain of the five-star resorts fronting them, because of the sheer sizes of property they occupy. In the far south, gorgeous Palolem has just one large resort close by (the InterContinental Grand, a few kilometers south in Cancona), and gets our vote for the best beach in Goa: Although it's become increasingly popular in the high season and is home to a sizable hippie community, it has yet to be overwhelmed by day-trippers. Just 7km (4 miles) north of Palolem, Agonda is even more isolated and peaceful, while to the south, Galgibaga is another remote haven with eucalyptus trees and empty stretches of sand. And then, of course, there's Om Beach, just over the border, an hour into neighboring state of Karnataka, considered by many to be the best beach in India and one of the most beautiful in the world. However, the hippies have zeroed in on it, so don't expect seclusion.
