Active Pursuits

Hiking

This is a prime hiker's park, with more than 80 miles of trails that range from easy walks to steep, strenuous, and sometimes treacherous adventures. Among shorter trails, try the Indian Meadow Nature Trail, with access from Dog Canyon Campground (walk south from the water fountain). This exceptionally easy .6-mile round-trip stroll follows a series of numbered stops keyed to a free brochure, available at the trail head. You'll learn about the native vegetation and cultural history of the area as you ramble along this virtually level dirt trail. The name comes from early settlers, who told of seeing Indian tepees in this lovely meadow. The McKittrick Canyon Nature Trail, rated moderate due to a rocky trail, is .9 mile round-trip, and begins at the McKittrick Canyon contact station. A great way to discover the variety of plants and animals that inhabit the canyon, this trail, which has some steep climbs, posts numerous educational signs along the path telling you why rattlesnakes are underappreciated and how the cactus supplies food and water for wildlife.

The easy .75-mile round-trip Pinery Trail (paved and accessible by wheelchair) gives visitors a brief introduction to the low-elevation environment at the park. Interpretive signs discuss the plants along the trail and the history of the area. About .25 miles from the visitor center the trail makes a loop around the ruins of an old horse-changing station, left over from the Butterfield Stage Route. The trail head is by the Pine Springs Visitor Center, or from the parking area on U.S. 62/180, located 1 mile north of the visitor center entrance road.

Among the park's longer trails, my favorite is the moderate-to-difficult McKittrick Canyon Trail, which is 5.1 miles one-way, with access at the McKittrick Canyon Trail trail head. I think McKittrick Canyon is the most beautiful spot in all of Texas, and this trail explores the length of it. The first 2.4 miles to the Pratt Cabin are moderate because of rocky trail conditions; the following 1.2 miles to the Grotto gain 340 feet in elevation and are also considered moderate; and the strenuous climb to the Notch rises nearly 1,300 feet in just 1.6 miles. Even so, this is one of the most popular hikes in the park, though not everyone makes it to the Notch.

The canyon is forested with conifers and deciduous trees. In fall the walnut and ash trees burst into color, painting the world in bright colors set off by the brown of the oaks and the rich variety of the evergreens. The stream in the canyon, which appears and disappears several times in the first 3 miles of the trail, is a permanent stream with reproducing trout. Hikers may not drink from, wade in, or disturb the stream in any way.

The first part of the trail is wide and seems quite flat, crossing the stream twice on its way to Pratt Cabin, which is wonderfully situated at the convergence of North and South McKittrick canyons. About a mile from the lodge a short spur veers off to the left to the Grotto, a recess with odd formations that look like they belong in an underground cave. This is a great spot for lunch at one of the stone picnic tables. Continuing down the spur trail to its end, you reach the Hunter Line Cabin, which served as temporary quarters for ranch hands of the Hunter family. Beyond the cabin, South McKittrick Canyon has been preserved as a Research Natural Area with no entry. Return to the main trail and continue toward the Notch, or head back down the canyon to your car. In another .5 mile, the trail begins switchbacking up the side of South McKittrick Canyon for the steepest ascent in the park, until it slips through the Notch, a distinctive narrow spot in the cliff. Sit down and rest while you absorb the incredible scenery. The view down the canyon is magnificent and quite dazzling in autumn. You can see both Hunter Line Cabin and Pratt Lodge in the distance. Remember to start down in time to reach your car well before the gate closes.

To stand at the highest point in Texas, hike the strenuous Guadalupe Peak Trail, which goes 4.2 miles from the trail head in Pine Springs Campground to the top of 8,749-foot-high Guadalupe Peak, where the magnificent views make the almost 3,000-foot climb worthwhile. If you have only 1 day to explore this park, and you are an average or better hiker, this is the hike you should choose. Start early, take plenty of water, and be prepared to work. When you've gone about halfway, you'll see what seems to be the top not too far ahead, but beware: This is a false summit. Study the changing life zones as you climb from the desert into the higher-elevation pine forests -- this will take your mind off your straining muscles and aching lungs. A mile short of the summit, a campground lies in one of the rare level spots on the mountain. If you plan to spend the night, strongly anchor your tent, as the winds can be ferocious up here, especially in spring.

From the summit, the views are stupendous. To the north are Shumard Peak and Bush Mountain, the next two highest points in Texas, with respective elevations of 8,615 and 8,631 feet. The Chihuahuan Desert stretches to the south, interrupted only by the Delaware and Sierra Diablo mountains. This is one of those "on a clear day you can see forever" spots -- sometimes all the way to 12,003-foot-high Sierra Blanca, near Ruidoso, New Mexico, 100 miles north.

Horseback Riding

About 60% of the park's trails are open to horses for day trips, but horses are not permitted in the backcountry overnight. There are corrals at Frijole Ranch (near Pine Springs) and Dog Canyon. Each set of corrals contains four pens that can accommodate up to 10 horses. There are no horses or other pack animals available for hire in or near the park. Park rangers warn that horses brought into the park should be accustomed to steep, rocky trails.

Wildlife Viewing

Because of the variety of habitats here, and also because these canyons offer some of the few water sources in West Texas, Guadalupe Mountains National Park offers excellent wildlife viewing and bird-watching possibilities. McKittrick Canyon and Frijole Ranch are considered among the best wildlife viewing spots, but a variety of species can be seen throughout the park. Those spending more than a few hours will likely see mule deer, and the park is also home to a herd of some 50 to 70 elk, which are sometimes seen in the higher elevations or along the highway in winter. Other mammals include raccoons, striped and hog-nosed skunks, gray foxes, coyotes, gray-footed chipmunks, Texas antelope squirrels, black-tailed jack rabbits, and desert cottontails. Black bears and mountain lions also live in the park, but are seldom seen.

About two dozen varieties of snakes make their home in the park, including five species of rattlesnakes. There are also numerous lizards, which are usually seen in the mornings and early evenings. These include the collared, crevice spiny, tree, side-blotched, and Texas horned lizards, and Chihuahuan spotted whiptails. The most commonly seen is the prairie lizard, identified by the light-colored stripes down its back.

More than 200 species of birds are known to spend time in the park, including peregrine falcons, golden eagles, turkey vultures, and wild turkeys. You are also likely to encounter rock wrens, canyon wrens, black-throated sparrows, common nighthawks, mourning doves, rufous-crowned sparrows, mountain chickadees, ladder-backed woodpeckers, solitary vireos, and western scrub jays.