Hotels

There's a wide range of hotel options and casas particulares (private rooms) for rent in Havana. Hotel options are divvied up among the large state-run chains. Habaguanex has monopoly control over the hotel scene in Habana Vieja, and Gaviota, Cubanacán, and Gran Caribe own the remainder of the midrange to upper-end offerings around Havana. Of the international hotel chains, the major player in town is the Spanish-owned Sol Meliá, which manages three large high-end properties in Havana. Given the fact that hotel chains control so much of the market, one major problem is a generalized lax attitude toward overbooking. Habaguanex and Gran Caribe are particularly notorious for this. Confirmed reservations at Gran Caribe's Hotel Nacional or Habaguanex's Santa Isabel are often shuttled off to one of their sister properties, usually with no compensation and little sympathy.

There are literally thousands of casas particulares in Havana. The neighborhoods of Centro Habana, Vedado, and Playa have the greatest concentration of casas particulares, although Habana Vieja is starting to catch up. In general, the rooms and homes are kept very clean, while the furnishings and amenities are quite simple. The rates average between CUC$7 and CUC$20 per person, and meals are often available at very reasonable prices. With the broad offering and rapid turnover in the market, it's impossible to list a representative selection of casas particulares. I've tried to include the most dependable and long-standing options in each neighborhood below. In addition, you can check out www.casaparticular.info.

Given the compact nature of Havana, the proximity of its major attractions, and the wide availability of relatively inexpensive taxis, the neighborhood you choose is not a limiting factor. In general, most visitors will want to spend most of their time exploring Habana Vieja, so the hotels there or nearby in Centro Habana are best for direct walking access. Large group and package tourists, as well as business travelers, are usually funneled toward hotels in Miramar and Playa, about a 10- to 15-minute ride away from most of the action, although the area is home to some of the better dining and nightlife options. Vedado is a sort of middle ground, with plenty of accommodations and dining options, easy access to the rest of the city's attractions, and quite a few natural charms of its own.

Note: While 110-volt electricity with standard U.S.-style plugs are the national norm, the high percentage of European travelers has led many hotels to add on 220-volt outlets or to fully convert. The Meliá chain, for example, has mostly 220-volt outlets, although they usually include at least one 110-volt outlet in each bathroom.

La Habana Vieja

With few exceptions, all of the hotels in Old Havana are run by the Cuban chain Habaguanex. And all of these are intimate boutique hotels in beautifully refurbished old buildings. I've listed my favorite Habaguanex hotels, but there are others that are nearly as nice; check www.habaguanex.com for the complete listing. One nice perk of staying at a Habaguanex hotel is that you get free admission to most of the museums in Old Havana.

Inexpensive -- Due to Habaguanex's almost complete control of the area, there are no budget hotel options in Habana Vieja, and few standout casas particulares. Still, this is one of the best locations in Havana, and you can certainly try Casa Ramón y Maritza, Calle Luz 115, between Calles San Ignacio and Inquisidor (tel. 7/862-3303; maritzamirabal@yahoo.es); Casa Mari, San Juan de Dios 60, between Calles Habana and Compostela (tel. 7/863-1298); Chez Nous, Calle Teniente Rey 115, between Calles Cuba and San Ignacio(tel. 7/862-6287; cheznous@ceniai.inf.cu); or Casa Elvia Olivares, Calle Aguacate 509, Apartment 402, between Calles Sol and Muralla (tel. 7/867-5974).

Centro Havana

With the exception of the Deauville, all of the hotels listed here are either right on, or very close to, the dividing line between Habana Vieja and Centro Habana, and so quite convenient for exploring Old Havana.

Inexpensive -- There are literally hundreds of official and unofficial rooms for rent in private homes throughout Centro Habana. Many are quite dilapidated and run down, but a few are well maintained and charming. One popular casa is that of Jorge Díaz, Calle Gervasio 209, between Calles Concordia and Virtudes (tel. 7/870-0489; www.cubanasol.com), a large and lovely old home, which is also known as La Casona Colonial. Other popular options include Casa Esther Cardosa, Calle Aguila 367, between San Miguel and Neptuno (tel. 7/862-0401; esthercardoso@hotmail.com); Casa Vicky, Calle Barcelona 60, between Aguila and Amistad (tel. 7/863-8923; virtudes624@yahoo.es); and Casa del Scientífico, Paseo de Martí 212, at the corner of Calle Trocadero (tel. 7/862-4511).

Vedado & The Plaza de la Revolucion Area

Inexpensive -- Given that this was one of Havana's prime middle-class neighborhoods, there's a glut of casas particulares, many in wonderful old neoclassical and Art Deco homes and apartment buildings. In addition to the options listed here, you could also try Casa Matilde Gómez, Calle 15 no. 152, between Calles K and L, Apartment 127, 12th floor (tel. 7/832-5783); Casa María Elena, Calle 13 no. 106, between Calles L and M, Apartment 5 (tel. 7/832-4346); Casa Sandra, Calle G no. 301 (at the corner of Calle 13), 13th floor (tel. 7/863-5547; www.accommodationhavana.com); or Casa Iraida, Calle 19 no. 376, between Calles G and H, Apartment 10-A (tel. 7/832-4084).

Playa

Inexpensive -- As in Vedado and Centro Habana, there are scores of casas particulares and private rooms for rent in Playa. Given the fact that this was a popular upper-class residential neighborhood prior to the Revolution, most are housed in large, comfortable homes and apartments. In addition to the casas listed here, you could try Casa Gina, Calle 86 no. 526, between Avenidas 5 and 7 (tel. 7/203-4034). Alternately, you could see if there's space at the Ministry of Education's Hostal Icemar, Calle 16 no. 104, between Avenidas 1 and 3 (tel./fax 7/203-7735), a dependable budget option popular with students and backpackers.

Near the Airport

There are no hotels at or truly near the airport. Luckily, the bulk of Havana hotels are just a 15- to 30-minute car ride away. The closest hotels to the airport are those in Playa. Of these, Cubanacán's Hotel Bello Caribe (tel. 7/273-9906; www.hotelescubanacan.com) is probably the closest, at just 10km (6 1/4 miles) from the airport. This is a decent option, although it's only a few minutes closer to the airport than the other Playa and Miramar options.

Habana del Este & Playas del Este

The beaches of Playas del Este are quite beautiful. Moreover, the four long, consecutive beaches here are just a 15- to 25-minute taxi or car ride from Habana Vieja, making it a good choice for combining your fun in the sun with some city pleasures. However, the hotel choices here are limited and rather desultory. While there are several all-inclusive resorts, offering a whole range of entertainment and activities options, they are far less polished and attractive than similar options in Varadero or other prime all-inclusive destinations. In fact, if you want a beautiful beach resort just a little bit farther east of Playas del Este, head to Breezes Jibacoa.

Inexpensive -- The Playas del Este beach town of Guanabo has a high concentration of casas particulares. Try Casa Trullijo, Av. Quebec 55, between Calles 478 and 482, Guanabo (tel. 7/96-3325; www.cubanasol.com); or Casa Oliva, Calle 468 no. 714, Guanabo (tel. 7/96-2819). The latter even has a small swimming pool.