Nightlife

Some would say Havana only really gets going after dark, when the slow pace and heat-induced stupor of the day finally wears off. This is a vibrant and truly cosmopolitan city with scores of bars, dance clubs, and theaters to choose from.

The Performing Arts

Cuba has a strong tradition in the performing arts. Cuban musicians, playing in a range of styles, are world-renowned. The Cuban National Ballet (tel. 7/855-3084; www.balletcuba.cu) has been garnering international accolades for decades, under the seemingly eternal direction of Alicia Alonso. And there's an active theater scene (and plenty of movie theaters), both of which are popular with locals, given the scant offerings of Cuban television. The major venues for the classical performing arts are the Teatro Nacional de Cuba, Paseo and Calle 39, Vedado (tel. 7/879-6011), which specializes in live theater performances by local and visiting companies; the Gran Teatro de La Habana, Paseo de Martí and Calle San Rafael, Centro Habana (tel. 7/862-9473), which is home to the Cuban National Ballet, as well as a prime venue for concerts and dance performances; and the Teatro Amadeo Roldán, Calle Calzada, between Calles D and E, Vedado (tel. 7/832-1168), which is home to the National Symphony Orchestra. Other important and working theaters include the Teatro Mella, Teatro Karl Marx, and the Café Teatro Brecht.

You can call any of the theaters listed above directly for performance schedules and ticket information, but your best bet is to ask at your hotel or pick up a copy of Cartelera, a free periodic bilingual magazine with listings for movies, theaters, bars, and live music that is available at the front desk of most hotels in Havana. Another good option is to contact Paradiso (tel. 7/832-9538), the tourism arm of the Ministry of Culture charged with organizing culturally themed travel to Cuba.

Feel the Beat

The Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba (Cuban National Folklore Group) hosts the weekly Sábado de la Rumba, a mesmerizing show of Afro-Cuban religious and secular dance and drumming. The 2-hour shows are presented every Saturday at 3pm, at El Gran Palenque, Calle 4, between Calzada and Avenida 5 in Vedado. Call tel. 7/830-3060 or 7/830-3939 for more information or to make a reservation.

Similar shows are offered Thursday through Sunday at 10pm by the group Obbara at the Palacio de la Artesanía, Calle Cuba 64, between Calles Peña Pobre and Cuarteles, la Habana Vieja.

The Cabaret, Club & Dance Scene

I'll bet Havana has more floor shows per capita than Las Vegas. In addition to the clubs and cabarets listed below, there are nightly and entirely respectable cabaret shows at the Habana Riviera's Copa Room, Paseo and Malecón, Vedado (tel. 7/834-4228); ARTex's Patio de la Casa 18, Calle 18, between Avenidas 5 and 7, Miramar (tel. 7/204-1212); and the Cabaret Nacional, Calle San Rafael and Paseo de Martí, la Habana Vieja (tel. 7/863-2361).

Habaneros love to dance and party, and you'll find a wild dance and club scene here. In fact, dance aficionados come to Havana from all over to learn the basic steps, fine-tune their moves, and watch the locals strut their stuff. Most clubs don't get going until after 10pm, and most stay pretty vibrant until the wee hours of the morning. While salsa is king in Cuba, most of the popular dance clubs catering to travelers have been putting some house, techno, reggaetón, and other modern dance tunes into the mix. Dress codes are somewhat casual, but locals still like to put on the ritz as much as possible before a night of dancing, so bring some finery if you plan to hit any of the more popular clubs.

The Bar Scene

La Bodeguita del Medio and El Floridita are two famous watering holes. I also enjoy the rooftop bar at the Hotel Ambos Mundos.

Cinema

Like its old cars, Havana's movie theaters are big, old classics. You won't find any multiplexes here. The films shown run the gamut from subtitled Hollywood blockbusters to local productions. Cuba actually has a very sophisticated film culture, and it's not uncommon to find mini-festivals and film series of classic foreign and independent cinema. The principal movie theaters are the Cine Yara, Calles 23 and L, Vedado (tel. 7/832-9430); Cine Chaplin, Calle 23, between Calles 10 and 12, Vedado (tel. 7/831-1101); Cine La Rampa, Calles 23 and O, Vedado (tel. 7/878-6146); and Cine Payret, Paseo de Martí and Calle San José, la Habana Vieja (tel. 7/863-3163). Admission is usually around 3 to 5 Cuban pesos, and you should be able to pay in pesos, not a dollar equivalent.

Gay & Lesbian Nightlife

Given Cuba's grudging acceptance of homosexuality, and tight state control over all official bars, restaurants, and nightclubs, there's no official gay or lesbian scene. Nor are there any official or unofficial gay or lesbian newspapers or weeklies. That said, the most sensual and sexually open nation in the Caribbean certainly has its gay and lesbian side. Currently, the 24-hour Fiat Café, Malecón between Calles Marina and Principe (tel. 7/873-5827), the area in front of the Cine Yara, Calles 23 and L, Vedado, and the corner of La Rampa and the Malecón are the de facto gathering spots for local and visiting gays and lesbians. Clubs and bars that do cater to gay and lesbian clientele prefer not to advertise the fact too openly. Your best bet for finding out the current gay and lesbian friendly spots, or getting invited to a fiesta de diez pesos (10¢ party) -- a private party -- is to head to either one of the spots mentioned above and ask around.