Getting There

By Plane

Arriving international passengers clear Customs on the ground level of Terminal 3 at the José Martí International Airport (tel. 7/266-4133; airport code HAV). All of the major car-rental agencies have kiosks or booths just outside of Customs. There's also an Infotur kiosk (tel. 7/866-3333; www.infotur.cu), where you can buy a map and pick up some brochures, and they should even be able to help with reservations.

There's an ATM among all the booths and kiosks on the ground floor, and another on the second floor, where departing passengers check in. Etecsa, the national phone company, has booths with card-operated pay phones on this level, as well as on the second floor. You can either buy a card from them, if their booth is manned, or from one of the souvenir vendors on the second floor.

Taxis wait in a long line just outside the ground floor exit. Unfortunately, all the different taxi companies are thrust into the lineup and are assigned to clients in order. Thus it's luck of the draw if you get one of the more expensive cab companies, such as Taxi OK, or one of the more economical ones, such as Panataxi or Havanautos. If you're really trying to save a few bucks, you can try demanding a Panataxi or Havanautos taxi or you could try negotiating a flat rate. A good rate to any hotel in downtown Havana is CUC$10 to CUC$15, although it's not uncommon for the meter or arranged fee to top out at CUC$20 to CUC$25.

Some charter flights and all national flights arrive at either Terminal 1 or 2. Both terminals also have Infotur offices or kiosks, an ATM or two, telephones, and taxis.

If you're driving from the airport, the main artery into Havana is Avenida de Rancho Boyeros. This will bring you to the Plaza de la Revolución and the towering José Martí Memorial. In general terms, if you continue straight, or roughly north toward the sea, you will hit the University of Havana and Vedado. Miramar and Playa will be to the left (west) and are best reached via the Malecón, while Centro Habana and Habana Vieja will be to the right (east).

By Car

Entering Havana by car is a confusing mess. Almost none of the major arteries into downtown are marked. This is especially true of the Autopista Nacional coming in from the east, which dumps you unceremoniously into the midst of an urban mess of some of the city's outer neighborhoods. Similarly, while there is ostensibly a beltway, or Circunvalación, around the downtown area, it and its various exits are virtually entirely unmarked.

One good tactic for navigating Havana is to somehow find your way to the Malecón; from there, the entire city is relatively easily accessible. The main thoroughfare through Miramar and Playa is Avenida 5.

By Train

The principal train station, or Estación Central, is located in Habana Vieja at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal (tel. 7/862-1920 or 7/861-4259). There are always plenty of taxis waiting at the station.

By Bus

The main Víazul bus station (tel. 7/881-1413; www.viazul.com) is located at Avenida 26 and Zoológico in Nuevo Vedado, on the outskirts of downtown. Astro buses (tel. 7/879-2456) arrive at their main terminal at Avenida de la Independencia and Calle 19 de Mayo, near the Plaza de la Revolución. There are always taxis available at both stations.

By Boat

Cubanacán's Marina Hemingway, Avenida 5 and Calle 248, Santa Fe, Playa (tel. 7/204-6848; www.cubanacan.cu), is the principal port of call and official point of entry for clearing Customs and Immigration. When arriving by sea, contact the marina before entering Cuban waters (19km/12 miles offshore) on VHF channels 16 or 19, or HF channel 2760.

Commercial cruise ships dock at the Sierra Maestra Terminal in Habana Vieja, just off the Plaza de San Francisco.