Getting Around

By Taxi

There is a host of different taxi cars with modern fleets geared toward the tourist trade. They have all just been reunited under Ministry of Transport management and, although they continue to carry the names of the previous companies such as Panataxi, Taxi OK, and Transgaviota, they are now all called Cubataxi and can be called on a central number (tel. 7/855-5555-59). All tourist taxis have meters. (Taxi drivers claiming their meters are broken are gearing up to rip off tourists.) Rates vary somewhat, but most of the meters start at CUC$1 (US$1.10/55p) for the first kilometer and then charge between CUC$.50 and CUC$.85 (US55¢-US90¢/25p-45p) for each additional kilometer. The most economical cabs are the yellow old-style Panataxis without air-conditioning, followed by the new yellow models with air-conditioning. Fénix (tel. 7/866-6666) is the most expensive cab service in Havana and is the only one (in addition to the Gran Car service, see below) that continues to operate under its own name.

Other options include horse-drawn carriages; the so-called Coco Taxis (tel. 7/873-1411), round open-air two seaters powered by a motorcycle; and antique cars that range from a Ford Model T to a 1957 Chevy. Both the horse-drawn carriages and Coco Taxis cost from CUC$5 to CUC$10 (US$5.40-US$11/£2.70-£5.40) per hour, with a minimum of around CUC$3 (US$3.25/£1.60). Gran Car (tel. 7/881-0992) is the most reputable agent for antique-car rentals. Gran Car rates, with a driver, run CUC$25 (US$27/£14) per hour or CUC$125 (US$135/£68) per day, or CUC$30 (US$32/£16) per hour and CUC$150 (US$162/£81) per day for convertibles.

Peso taxis, bicitaxis (bicycle taxis), and freelance taxis are lesser options for most tourists. All are illegal for tourists, although it's the driver, not the rider, who is at risk. If you choose one of these options, be sure to fix your price beforehand, and don't be surprised if the driver is somewhat paranoid about the money transfer, and/or refuses to drop you off right at your hotel, or changes the route when he spots the police.

By Foot

Havana is a great town to walk around. It's almost entirely flat and very safe. Early morning, late afternoon, and early evening are the prime times to walk. High heat and heavy humidity can make long walks, particularly around midday, a little uncomfortable. La Habana Vieja is best explored on foot, and a walk along the Malecón is obligatory. Attractions in Vedado and Miramar are a little spread out, making them less desirable to explore on foot, although a walk along La Rampa in Vedado, or Quinta Avenida (Av. 5) in Miramar, are both rewarding.

By Car

There's really no reason for tourists to rent a car to explore Havana. Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. Moreover, streets are poorly marked and it's a confusing city to navigate.

One exception would be to rent an antique car from Gran Car (tel. 7/881-0992). Gran Car's fleet runs from restored 1930s open-air Ford cruisers to classic 1950s Chevys, Buicks, De Sotos, and Studebakers. Rates, with a driver, run around CUC$25 (US$27/£14) per hour up to CUC$150 (US$162/£81) per day, depending on whether the car is a convertible or not.

If you do want to rent a modern car while in Havana, there is a host of options, including Cubacar (tel. 7/273-2277; cubacar@transtur.cu); Havanautos (tel. 7/835-3142; havanautos@transtur.cu); and Rex (tel. 7/835-6830 or 7/683-0303). All three are run by Transtur (tel. 7/862-2686 or 7/861-5885; www.transtur.cu). Micar (tel. 7/204-7777) and Vía Rent a Car (tel. 7/861-4465; www.gaviota-grupo.com) are also options. All of the above companies have desks at the airport and at a host of major hotels around Havana.

In general, traffic is much lighter than you'd find in most major urban areas. However, you do have to pay more attention to a wide range of obstacles, from pedestrians and bicyclists to horse-drawn carriages. While most roads in Havana are in pretty decent shape, it's not uncommon to come across huge potholes or torn-up sections of road with no markings or warnings. Moreover, street markings and signs are minimal, making navigation challenging.

By Bus

For all intents and purposes, Havana's woefully overburdened urban bus system is not a viable option for tourists. Routes and service are inconsistent, the buses are overcrowded, and there are no readily available route maps and schedules.

Truly hearty travelers and independent souls can give the local buses a try. Your best bet is to query locals about routes and hours and where to find the appropriate stop. A large number of metro buses either originate or have a stop at the Parque de la Fraternidad, a block south of the Capitolio. A new bus service, known as taxi rutero, has begun, costing five Cuban pesos. Most buses are entered from the front, although some are still entered from the rear and use an honor system of passing your coins forward. Some have separate lines for those wanting a seat (sentado) and those willing to stand (parado). Fares run around 40 centavos to one peso in Cuban pesos (moneda nacional).

Transtur has started operating red HabanaBusTour coaches (tel. 7/831-7333; www.transtur.cu) on three routes with a hop-on/hop-off service for CUC$5 (US$5.40/£2.70) a day. The routes cover La Habana Vieja to the Plaza de la Revolución, Plaza de la Revolución to Marina Hemingway through Miramar, and Parque Central to Playas del Este. They run from 9am to 9:20pm daily. All schedules are marked at the bright red bus stops.