Getting Around

By Taxi

There are a host of different taxi companies with modern fleets geared toward the tourist trade. Almost all tourist taxis have meters. Rates vary somewhat, but most of the meters start at CUC$1.75 for the first kilometer and then charge between CUC50¢ and CUC85¢ for each additional kilometer. The most economical cabs are the Panataxi (tel. 7/55-5555), Micar (tel. 7/204-2719), Habanataxi (tel. 7/832-3232), and Havanautos Taxis (tel. 7/832-3232) lines. Taxi OK (tel. 7/204-0000) and Fénix (tel. 7/863-3149) are the most expensive companies. Transtur (tel. 7/208-6666) and Transgaviota (tel. 7/203-7000) seem to fall in the middle.

Other options include horse-drawn carriages; the so-called Coco Taxis (tel. 7/873-1411), round open-air two-seaters powered by a motorcycle; and antique cars that range from a Ford Model T to a 1957 Chevy. Both the horse-drawn carriages and Coco Taxis run around CUC$5 to CUC$10 per hour, with around a CUC$3 minimum. Gran Car (tel. 7/33-5647) is the most reputable agent for antique car rentals. Gran Car rates, with a driver, run CUC$15 per hour or CUC$100 per day, with discounts for multiday rentals.

Peso taxis and freelance taxis are lesser options for most tourists. Both are either outright illegal or marginally illegal for tourists, although it's the driver, not the rider, who is at risk. If you opt for either one of the options, be sure to fix your price beforehand, and don't be surprised if the driver is somewhat paranoid about the money transfer, and/or refuses to drop you off right at your hotel.

By Foot

Havana is a great town to walk around. It's almost entirely flat and very safe. Early morning, late afternoon, and early evenings are the prime times to walk. High heat and heavy humidity can make long walks, particularly around midday, a little uncomfortable. La Habana Vieja is best explored by foot, and a walk along the Malecón is nearly obligatory. Attractions in Vedado and Miramar are a little spread out, making them less desirable to explore by foot, although a walk along La Rampa in Vedado, or Quinta Avenida (Av. 5) in Miramar are both rewarding.

Cuban Camellos

In an attempt to meet the mass transit burden, Cuba came up with a unique form of tractor-pulled passenger car affectionately known as a camello or "camel." The name comes from the fact that the elongated cars have two "humps." You'll see these unique buses, with people packed inside like sardines, all around Havana and Cuba.

By Car

There's really no reason for tourists to rent a car to explore Havana. Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. Moreover, streets are poorly marked and it's a confusing city to navigate.

One exception would be to rent an antique car from Gran Car (tel. 7/33-5647). Gran Car's fleet runs from restored 1930s open-air Ford cruisers to classic 1950s Chevys, Buicks, De Sotos, and Studebakers. Rates, with a driver, run around CUC$15 per hour or CUC$100 per day, with discounts for multiday rentals.

If you do want to rent a modern car while in Havana, there are a host of options, including Cubacar (tel. 7/273-2277; www.cubacar.info); Havanautos (tel. 7/835-3142; www.havanautos.cu); Micar (tel. 7/204-8888); Transtur (tel. 7/862-2686 or 7/861-5885; www.transtur.cu); and Vía Rent A Car (tel. 7/861-4465; www.gaviota-grupo.com). All of the above companies have desks at the airport, and at a host of major hotels around Havana.

In general, traffic is much lighter than you'd find in most major urban areas. However, you do have to pay more attention to a wide range of obstacles ranging from pedestrians and bicyclists to horse-drawn carriages. While most roads in Havana are in pretty decent shape, it's not uncommon to come across huge potholes or torn-up sections of road with no markings or warnings. Moreover, street markings and signs are minimal, making navigation challenging.

By Bus

For all intents and purposes, Havana's woefully overburdened urban bus system is no longer a viable option for tourists. Routes and service are inconsistent, the buses are overcrowded, and there are no readily available route maps and schedules.

Truly hearty travelers and independent souls can give the local buses a try. Your best bet is to query locals about routes and hours and where to find the appropriate stop. A large number of metro buses either originate or have a stop at the Parque de la Fraternidad, a block south of the Capitolio. Most buses are entered from the front, although some are still entered from the rear and use an honor system of passing your coins forward. Some have separate lines for those wanting a seat (sentado) and those willing to stand (parado). Fares run around 20 to 30 centavos in Cuban pesos (moneda nacional).

One useful bus for tourists is the daily Víazul (tel. 7/881-1413; www.viazul.com) running from Havana to Playas del Este. This bus leaves from Havana daily at 8:40am and 2:20pm, returning from Playas del Este at 10:30am and 4:40pm. Pickups and drop-offs can be arranged at most hotels on each end of the trip. Fare is CUC$5.