El Bodegón Criollo

Frommer's Review

A couple of huge wine casks hanging over the door mark the entrance to this, the principal restaurant at the Fortaleza la Cabaña complex. The dining room occupies a long, wide, former storage room in the old fortress, with arched ceilings and brick floors. A small bar dominates a much smaller adjacent room. The food is simple and filling. I recommend the grillada criolla, which is a mixed plate of grilled beef, chicken, and pork served with moros y cristianos (black beans and rice). The grilled lobster is a good choice as well. Make a reservation for around 7pm if you want to eat and be out in time to snag a good spot for the nightly cañonazo ceremony. The Fortaleza la Cabaña complex is popular with Cubans and actually has several restaurants -- you might want to try the nearby La Fortaleza, a peso restaurant that serves similar and slightly less expensive food in a much less formal setting.

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