Los Doce Apóstoles

I prefer this place to the far more pretentious and nearby La Divina Pastora . Set at the base of the Morro Castle, just behind a battery of 12 cannons -- hence the name "The Twelve Apostles" -- the setting is actually nicer than that at La Divina Pastora, with great views day or night at a collection of open-air patio tables. When it's raining or the sun's too strong, you can take a seat at one of the less picturesque, indoor tables. Stick to the reasonably priced criolla fare and, if you've come for dinner, hang around after you finish, as this joint often gets jumping after the cañonazo ceremony.

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