Active Pursuits

Despite the fact that the SAR is densely populated, there's enough open space to pursue everything from golf to hiking to windsurfing. For the hardworking Chinese and expatriates, recreation and leisure are essential for relaxing and winding down. With that in mind, try to schedule your golfing, swimming, or hiking trips on weekdays unless you enjoy jostling elbows with the crowds.

Golf

Golf courses can be crowded, so it's recommended you call clubs beforehand to check whether they're open and the available tee-off times. It's best to book a tee-time in advance. For more information on courses in Hong Kong, contact the Hong Kong Golf Association (tel. 852/2504 8659; www.hkga.com).

The Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau Public Golf Course (tel. 852/2791 3388; www.kscgolf.com), carved out of an island formerly used by the British army for shelling practice, offers great panoramic vistas and one of the world's finest public golfing facilities. There is one 18-hole course that charges HK$640 (US$84/£45) on weekdays and HK$940 (US$122/£67) on weekends. There's also a 9-hole course that costs HK$380 (US$49/£27) and HK$550 (US$71/£39), respectively. To reach it, take the MTR to Choi Hung and then board bus no. 92 or green minibus no. 1A to Sai Kung Bus Terminus, followed by the special "golfer's ferry" to Kau Sai Chau.

There are also private golf clubs that admit nonmembers on weekdays only. Most charge HK$1,400 (US$182/£100) for greens fees on 18-hole courses. The Hong Kong Golf Club (www.hkgolfclub.org) maintains three 18-hole courses in Fanling (tel. 852/2670 1211) and a 9-hole course in Deep Water Bay (tel. 852/2812 7070). No advance reservations are taken, so visitors should first check availability by phone and then arrive early. To reach Fanling, take the KCR railway to Sheung Shui, followed by a 3-minute taxi ride. To reach Deep Water Bay, take bus no. 260 or 262 from Exchange Square in Central.

The Discovery Bay Golf Club, on Lantau island (tel. 852/2987 7273), has a beautiful 18-hole course developed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., offering great views of Hong Kong and the harbor. To reach it, take the 20-minute ferry ride from Central to Discovery Bay, followed by a ride in a special shuttle bus. Another scenic 18-hole course and a 9-hole course, operated by the Clearwater Bay Golf and Country Club (tel. 852/2335 3888; www.cwbgolf.org), is located in Sai Kung in the New Territories, on a picturesque headland overlooking the South China Sea. To reach it, take the KCR railway to Sheung Shui, and then take a taxi.

Hiking

With 23 country parks -- amounting to more than 40% of Hong Kong's space -- there are many trails of varying levels of difficulty throughout Hong Kong, including hiking trails, nature trails, and family trails. Serious hikers, for example, may want to consider the famous MacLehose Trail in the New Territories, which stretches about 100km (62 miles) through eight country parks, from the Sai Kung Peninsula in the east to Tuen Mun in the west. The strenuous Lantau Trail is a 70km (43-mile) circular trail on Lantau island that begins and ends at Mui Wo (also called Silvermine Bay), passing several popular scenic spots and campsites along the way and including a 2 1/2-hour trek to the top of Lantau Peak. Both the MacLehose and Lantau trails are divided into smaller sections of varying difficulty, which means that you can tailor your hike to suit your own abilities and time constraints. I also like the short Heritage Trails in the New Territories which take in historic architectural gems along the way. Easier to reach is the 50km (31-mile) Hong Kong Trail, which spans Hong Kong Island's five country parks.

Hikers are advised not to hike alone and to check weather reports before departing; from May to October, irregular thunderstorms, typhoons, and heavy showers can cause flooding and landslides. The best hiking season is considered November through February. The Hong Kong Tourism Board has some trail maps and a hiking and wildlife guidebook called Exploring Hong Kong's Countryside: A Visitor's Companion. HKTB also lists recommended hikes on its website, www.discoverhongkong.com.

Jogging

The best places to jog on Hong Kong Island without dodging traffic are Victoria Park's jogging track in Causeway Bay, Harlech Road on Victoria Peak, and Bowen Road, which stretches 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) from Stubbs Road to Magazine Gap Road in the Mid-Levels and offers great views over the harbor. In addition, an inside track at the Happy Valley racecourse is open for runners when the horses aren't using the field. On the other side of the harbor, there's Kowloon Park, as well as the waterfront promenade along Tsim Sha Tsui and Tsim Sha Tsui East.

Remember that it can be quite hot and humid during the summer months, so try to jog in the early morning or in the evening.

Swimming

In addition to the many outdoor and indoor swimming pools at Hong Kong's hotels that are available for hotel guests, there are numerous public swimming pools, including those at Kowloon Park and Victoria Park. Prices are HK$19 (US$2.45/£1.35) for adults and HK$9 (US$1.15/65p) for children and seniors (you can also use your Octopus transportation card to gain admission). Avoid hot weekends, when the pools can become quite crowded.

There are also about 40 beaches in the SAR that are free for public use; most of them have lifeguards on duty April through October, changing rooms, and snack stands or restaurants. Even on Hong Kong Island itself you can find a number of beaches, including Big Wave Bay and Shek O on the east coast, and Stanley, Deep Water Bay, South Beach (popular with the gay crowd), and Repulse Bay on the southern coast. Repulse Bay, by far the most popular beach in Hong Kong, becomes unbelievably crowded on summer weekends.

There are prettier beaches on the outlying islands, including Hung Shing Ye and Lo So Shing on Lamma, Tung Wan on Cheung Chau, and Cheung Sha on Lantau. It is, however, advisable to check on water pollution before plunging in, especially on the islands. Furthermore, I wouldn't recommend the waters around Sai Kung Peninsula. There seem to be fatal shark attacks here every couple of years, due to fish migration, though most of the public beaches have shark nets and guards patrolling the water.

Tai Chi

Tai chi (shadow boxing) is an ancient Chinese regimen designed to balance body and soul and thereby release energy from within. By strengthening both the mind and the body through seemingly fluid, slow movements that mask the strength and control required to perform the balletlike exercise, tai chi fosters a sense of well-being and nurtures self-discipline. It also helps develop balance, improves muscle tone and breathing, and aids in digestion. In Hong Kong, both young and old practitioners gather every morning in downtown parks and open public spaces to perform tai chi. Visitors, too, can join complimentary 1-hour lessons in English, offered by the Hong Kong Tourism Board's Meet the People cultural program, every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday at 8am. Simply show up at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront promenade near the Avenue of Stars, where you'll be led through the exercises by a tai chi master. Participants are advised to wear casual clothing and comfortable sport shoes with rubber soles. For information, contact the Hong Kong Tourism Board (tel. 852/2508 1234).