Nightlife in Hong Kong seems pretty tame when compared with that in Tokyo or Bangkok. With the world of Suzie Wong in Wan Chai now a shadow of its former wicked self, Hong Kong today seems somewhat reserved and, perhaps to some minds, yawningly dull. For the upper crust who live here, exclusive clubs are popular for socializing and entertaining guests, while the vast majority of Chinese are likely to spend their free evenings at one of those huge lively restaurants.
Yet it would be wrong to assume that the SAR has nothing to offer in the way of nightlife -- it's just that you probably won't get into any trouble enjoying yourself. To liven things up, Hong Kong stages several annual events, including the Hong Kong Arts Festival in February/March, and the Hong Kong International Film Festival in April. There are cultural activities and entertainment throughout the year, including theater productions, pop concerts, and Chinese opera and dance performances. In addition, there are plenty of that finest of British institutions -- the pub -- not to mention sophisticated cocktail lounges, discos, hostess clubs, and topless bars. There are even a couple of nightlife districts in the Central District: in the vicinity of Lan Kwai Fong Street and D'Aguilar Street, where a string of bars and restaurants have long added a spark to Hong Kong's financial district; and SoHo, along the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator, with its ever-growing number of ethnic restaurants and bars. Business is so good, some predict a future merging of the two as more and more establishments set up shop. Wan Chai has also witnessed a revival with a spate of new bars, restaurants, and strip joints, while Knutsford Terrace, a small alley on the north end of Tsim Sha Tsui, is popular for its open-fronted bars and restaurants. You can party until dawn; indeed, some bars and discos don't take off until after midnight.
Remember that a 10% service charge will be added to your food/drinks bill. If you're watching your Hong Kong dollars, take advantage of happy hour, when many bars offer two drinks for the price of one or drinks at lower prices. (Actually, "happy hours" would be more appropriate, since the period is generally from 5-8pm and often even longer than that.) Furthermore, many pubs, bars, and lounges offer live entertainment, from jazz to Filipino combos (musicians and singers together performing all kinds of music genres), which you can enjoy simply for the price of a beer. There are also a variety of ways to enjoy yourself at night without spending money -- for example, strolling along the Tsim Sha Tsui harbor waterfront or around Victoria Peak, or browsing at the Temple Street Night Market.
Information, Please
To find out what's going on during your stay in the SAR, be sure to pick up What's On -- Hong Kong, an HKTB leaflet published weekly that tells what's happening in theater, music, and the arts, including concerts and Chinese opera (you can also access it only at www.discoverhongkong.com). HK Magazine, distributed free at restaurants, bars, and other outlets around town and aimed at a young readership, is a weekly that lists what's going on at the city's theaters and other venues, including plays, concerts, the cinema, and events in Hong Kong's alternative scene. Where Hong Kong, CityLife, and bc are three other free magazines published monthly with nightlife information and special events.
Mad About Mah-jongg
You don't have to be in Hong Kong long before you hear it: the clackity-clack of mah-jongg, almost deafening if it's emanating from a large mah-jongg parlor. You can hear it at large restaurants (there are usually mah-jongg parlors in side rooms), at wedding celebrations, in the middle of the day, and long into the night. In a land where gambling is illegal except at the horse races, mah-jongg provides the opportunity for skillful gambling.
Although mah-jongg originated during the Sung dynasty almost 1,000 years ago, today's game is very different, more difficult, and played with amazing speed. Essentially, mah-jongg is played by four people, using tiles that resemble dominoes and bear Chinese characters and designs. Tiles are drawn and discarded (by slamming them on the table), until one player wins with a hand of four combinations of three tiles and a pair of matching tiles. But the real excitement comes with betting chips that each player receives and which are awarded to the winner based on his or her combination of winning tiles. Excitement is also heightened by the speed of the game -- the faster tiles are slammed against the table and swooped up, the better. Technically, the mah-jongg game is over when a player runs out of chips, though it's not unusual to borrow chips to continue playing. There are lots of stories in Hong Kong of fortunes made and lost in a game of mah-jongg. Many hard-core players confess to an addiction.
