Getting There

With dozens of airlines and half a dozen cruise lines serving Hong Kong from around the world, it's certainly not difficult to get there. Your itinerary, the amount of time you have, and your pocketbook will probably dictate how you travel. Below are some pointers to get you headed in the right direction.

By Plane

Because the flight to Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) is such a long one (almost 16 hr. from Chicago, 12 hr. from London, and 9 hr. from Sydney), you may wish to splurge for a roomier seat and upgraded service, including special counters for check-in, private lounges at the airport, and better meals, as well as a higher ticket price when choosing your carrier. You should also consider a mileage program, since this round-trip flight will earn you a lot of miles.

Airlines that fly between North America and Hong Kong include Air Canada, Cathay Pacific Airways (Hong Kong's own airline), Continental Airlines, Japan Airlines, Korean Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Philippine Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and United Airlines.

From the United Kingdom, Cathay Pacific, Qantas, and Virgin Atlantic Airways offer daily nonstop service from London to Hong Kong. All three airlines also offer flights from Australia, while Cathay Pacific and Air New Zealand also offer service from New Zealand.

Dragonair is a Hong-Kong based airline that serves many cities in Asia. Likewise, sister airlines Hong Kong Airlines and Hong Kong Express are both based in Hong Kong and service some 30 cities in Asia.

Arriving at Hong Kong International Airport -- No one who ever flew into Hong Kong's former Kai Tak Airport could quite forget the experience of landing in one of the world's most densely populated cities. The runway extended out into the bay, past apartments so close you could almost reach out and touch the laundry fluttering from the bamboo poles.

But Kai Tak, which ranked as the world's third-busiest airport in 1996, was retired in 1998. Taking its place is the Hong Kong International Airport (tel. 852/2181 8888; www.hongkongairport.com), more than four times the size of Kai Tak when it opened and now consisting of two terminals. Situated just north of Lantau island on Chek Lap Kok island and reclaimed land, about 32km (20 miles) from Hong Kong's central business district, the state-of-the-art airport is one of the world's most user-friendly.

Regardless of which terminal you arrive in, after Customs you'll find yourself in the arrivals hall. One of the first things you should do is stop by one of three Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) counters, where you can pick up a map of the city, sightseeing brochures, and a wealth of other information, as well as get directions to your hotel. They're open daily from 7am to 11pm. iCyberLink computers provide access to www.discoverhongkong.com 24 hours a day.

Also in the arrivals hall is the counter of the Hong Kong Hotel Association (tel. 852/2383 8380 or 852/2769 8822; www.hkha.com.hk), where you can book a room in one of its 90-some member hotels without paying a service fee; it's open daily from 6am to midnight. Note that while they do not have information on rock-bottom establishments, they can book rooms in several low-priced lodgings.

If you plan on traveling to Macau sometime during your stay in Hong Kong, stop by the Macau tourist information counter, in the arrivals lobby of Terminal 1, at AO6; it's open daily from 9am to 1pm, 1:45 to 6pm, and 6:45 to 10pm. However, if you are traveling directly to Macau from Hong Kong International Airport via the Ferry Transfer service, do not pass through immigration. Rather, follow signs to the Ferry Transfer desk where you can purchase ferry tickets and proceed directly to the ferry pier.

You can exchange money at the arrivals hall, but since the rate here is rather unfavorable, it's best to exchange only what you need to get into town -- about US$50 (£25) should do it.

If you need to leave luggage at the airport, a luggage-storage counter is located on the departure floor. Other facilities include a post office, a medical center, shops, and restaurants. Wi-Fi is available free throughout the entire airport.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- The quickest way to get to downtown Hong Kong is via the sleek Airport Express Line (tel. 852/2881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk), which is straight ahead after passing Customs and entering the arrivals hall. Trains run every 12 minutes between 5:50am and 1:15am and take 20 minutes to reach Kowloon Station (off Jordan Rd. and accessible to hotels in Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei) and 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station, on Hong Kong Island in the Central District. From both Kowloon and Hong Kong stations, free shuttle bus service transfers passengers to most major hotels, departing every 12 to 24 minutes between 6:18am and 11:10pm (visit www.mtr.com.hk for a list of hotels served).

Fares for the Airport Express are HK$90 (US$12/£5.85) to Kowloon and HK$100 (US$13/£6.50) to Central; round-trip tickets are HK$160 (US$21/£10) and HK$180 (US$23/£12), respectively. Or, if you're in Hong Kong only 3 days, consider purchasing the Airport Express Travel Pass for HK$300 (US$39/£19), which allows unlimited travel by public transportation for 3 days and includes the trip from and to the airport. If you're in Hong Kong longer than 3 days, a cheaper alternative for HK$220 (US$29/£14) includes a single journey to or from the airport plus 3 days of public transportation.

In addition to the Airport Express train, dedicated airport buses connect the airport with major downtown Hong Kong areas. Easiest if you have lots of luggage is the Airport Hotelink (tel. 852/3193 9333; www.trans-island.com.hk), which provides door-to-door service between the airport and major hotels. Tickets, available at counters in the airport arrivals hall of both terminals, cost HK$130 (US$17/£8.45) to Kowloon and HK$140 (US$18/£9.10) to Hong Kong Island, with buses departing every 30 to 60 minutes. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes to reach Tsim Sha Tsui, depending on the traffic.

Slower and cheaper, with more stops, are Cityflyer Airbuses (tel. 852/2873 0818; www.nwstbus.com.hk), also with ticket counters in the arrivals hall (if you pay onboard, you must have exact fare or use an Octopus card). Most important for tourists are Airbus A21, which travels through Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei, Jordan, and down Nathan Road through Tsim Sha Tsui on its way to the KCR East Rail Hung Hom Station; and Airbus A11, which travels to Hong Kong Island, with stops in Central, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay. Buses depart every 10 to 30 minutes, with fares costing HK$33 (US$4.30/£2.15) to Kowloon and HK$40 (US$5.20/£2.60) to Central and Causeway Bay.

The easiest way to travel from the airport, of course, is to simply jump in a taxi, since taxis are quite cheap in Hong Kong but expensive for the long haul from the airport. Depending on traffic and your final destination, a taxi to Tsim Sha Tsui costs approximately HK$300 (US$39/£19) and takes 30 to 45 minutes, while a taxi to the Central District will cost about HK$365 (US$47/£24) and will take 35 to 50 minutes. An extra luggage charge of HK$5 (US65¢/32p) applies to each piece of baggage.

Departing from the Airport -- Passengers flying Cathay Pacific, Continental, Northwest Airlines, United, and many other airlines are offered the extra benefit of being allowed to check in for return flights at one of two satellite train stations -- at Hong Kong Station in Central and at Kowloon Station, both served by the Airport Express Line. Both allow you advance check-in any time from 24 hours to 90 minutes before your flight: You'll get your boarding pass, and your bags will be transferred to the airport. In addition, a left-luggage service is available at both stations, daily 6am to 1am and useful if your flight is later in the day and you want to do some sightseeing before heading for the airport. Rates per piece of luggage are HK$35 (US$4.55/£2.25) for up to 3 hours and HK$50 (US$6.50/£3.25) for 3 to 24 hours.

If you travel directly to the airport and go through check-in there, plan on arriving about 2 hours before departure of your flight. Although most tickets now include airport departure tax in their price, you may be required to pay the tax (HK$120/US$16/£7.80) if yours does not.

A final note about departing: Travelers may not bring sharp objects (knives, cutters, scissors, razor blades, household cutlery) in their carry-on but may pack them in checked bags. Also, gels, aerosols, and liquids in carry-on baggage must fit into one quart-size clear plastic bag; otherwise, check it or it will be confiscated.

By Train

It's unlikely you'll arrive in the SAR by train, unless, of course, you're traveling via China. The Beijing-Kowloon Railway provides a direct link between the two cities in approximately 24 hours. One-way tickets cost HK$1,191 (US$155/£77) for a bed in a deluxe, two-bed cabin, HK$934 (US$121/£61) for a "soft bed" in a four-bed cabin, and HK$601 (US$78/£39) for a "hard bed" in a six-bed cabin. Service is also available from Shanghai in about 20 hours, costing HK$508 to HK$1,039 (US$66-US$135/£33-£67) one-way, and from Guangzhou (formerly Canton), costing HK$190 to HK$230 (US$25-US$30/£12-£15) and taking less than 2 hours.

The end terminus for train travel to Hong Kong is Hung Hom in Kowloon, with MTR service onward to East Tsim Sha Tsui Station and its many hotels.

By Boat

Some 30 international cruise ships make Hong Kong a port of call each year. The SAR's main docking facility for cruise liners is Ocean Terminal, located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui and part of a massive shopping complex which includes 700 shops and 50 restaurants. Just a stone's throw away is the Star Ferry with service to Hong Kong Island. To accommodate growing demand, another cruise terminal is planned for the former Kai Tak airport runway, with a scheduled opening in 2012.

Extensive ferry service from neighboring Guangdong Province, across the border in mainland China, is offered by the Chu Kong Passenger Transport Co. (tel. 852/2858 3876; www.cksp.com.hk). Ferries from Nan Hai (port of call for Guangzhou), Zhu Hai, Shantou, Sanbu, and a dozen other cities arrive at the China HK Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui.

TurboJet (tel. 852/2859 3333; www.turbojet.com.hk) operates jetfoil service from Macau and Shenzhen to the Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island, with MTR connection to the rest of the city. A limited number of jetfoils also go to the China HK Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui.