There are some 260 outlying islands around Hong Kong, most of them barren and uninhabited. Because construction in the New Territories is booming and transportation to underpopulated areas there can be slow, the islands offer the best opportunity to see something of rural Chinese life. What's more, they're easy to reach -- hop on a ferry in Central and then sit back and enjoy the view. Taking a ferry to an outlying island is the cheapest harbor cruise there is, making getting there part of the fun.
Three of the most accessible and popular islands are Lantau, Cheung Chau, and Lamma. Each offers something different: Lantau, which can also be reached by MTR and then cable car, is famous for its giant outdoor Buddha -- one of Hong Kong's major attractions -- and Po Lin Monastery with its vegetarian meals; Cheung Chau, with its beach, boat population, and thriving fishing community, is a popular destination for families and is the best choice for immersion into village life; and Lamma, known for its open-air seafood restaurants, hiking trail, and beaches, is best for getting away from it all.
Ferries to all three islands depart approximately every hour or two from Hong Kong Island's Central Ferry Piers, piers built out into the harbor on reclaimed land and home also of the Star Ferry. You can purchase your ticket at the piers just prior to departure or use the magnetic Octopus transportation card, but avoid going on Sunday when the ferries are packed with city folks on family outings. There are two kinds of ferries: ordinary ferries and quicker hover-ferry service (called "Fast Ferries"). The Fast Ferries to Lantau, Cheung Chau, and Lamma are used mostly by commuters; I personally prefer the slower, ordinary ferries because the view is better, especially if you're headed for Lantau or Cheung Chau. These have the bonus of deluxe class, which is on the upper deck and has an open deck out back -- a great place to watch the harbor float past when the weather is nice. In addition, deluxe cabins are the only ones that are air-conditioned, a plus when humidity is at its peak. Note, however, that ferries to Lamma have no deluxe class or outside deck. In any case, you might wish to head out to an island via regular ferry and then return via Fast Ferry. Note that on Saturday afternoon and Sunday, there is additional infrequent ferry service from Tsim Sha Tsui's Star Ferry concourse to Lantau and Cheung Chau, but it may not offer deluxe class.
Fares to the islands are a bargain. On weekdays and on Saturday, tickets for ordinary ferries cost just HK$11 to HK$11.30 (US$1.40-US$1.45/75p-80p) for ordinary class and HK$18 (US$2.30/£1.30) for deluxe. Fares are slightly higher on Sunday and public holidays, though they're never very expensive: HK$14 to HK$17 (US$1.80-US$2.15/£1-£1.20) for ordinary class, depending on the destination, and HK$26 (US$3.35/£1.85) for a deluxe ticket. Fast Ferries average HK$22 (US$2.85/£1.55) Monday through Saturday and HK$32 (US$4.15/£2.30) on Sundays and holidays.
In any case, by ordinary ferry it takes only 35 minutes to reach Lamma, 55 minutes to reach Cheung Chau, and 50 minutes to reach Lantau. Fast Ferry reduces travel time to 20 minutes for Lamma, 30 minutes for Cheung Chau, and 40 for Lantau.
For information on ferry schedules and prices, drop by the Hong Kong Tourist Board for a free copy of timetables and prices. You can also obtain information on schedules to Cheung Chau and Lantau at tel. 852/2131 8181 and www.nwff.com.hk; for Lamma, call tel. 852/2815 6063 or visit www.hkkf.com.hk.
