Top Attractions

The four activities I would recommend to every visitor to the SAR are: Ride the Star Ferry across the harbor, take the Peak tram to the top of Victoria Peak, ride one of the rickety old trams on Hong Kong Island, and take a ferry to one of the outlying islands. Nothing can beat the thrill of these four experiences, or give you a better insight into the essence of Hong Kong and its people. What's more, they're all incredibly inexpensive.

Hong Kong Ferries

The stars of the Hong Kong show, of course, are the Star Ferries, green-and-white vessels that have been carrying passengers back and forth between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island since 1898. At only HK$1.70 (US20¢/10p) for the regular, lower-deck fare, it's one of the cheapest -- and yet most dramatic -- 5-minute rides in the world. The entire trip from loading pier to unloading pier takes about 7 minutes in all; there are approximately 400 crossings a day.

Since a 5-minute ride isn't nearly enough time to soak up the ambience of Victoria Harbour, another great way to relax and view the skyline is on a ferry to an outlying island. These ferries, which depart from the Central Ferry Piers, are by far the cheapest way to see Hong Kong harbor, with most trips lasting less than an hour. Some even offer an outside deck, where you can watch Hong Kong float past. In fact, part of the fun in visiting an outlying island is the ferry ride there and back.

Victoria Peak

At 392m (1,286 ft.), Victoria Peak is Hong Kong Island's tallest hill, which naturally makes it the best place for spectacular views of the city and surrounding areas (if possible, go on a crystal-clear day). It's always been one of Hong Kong's most exclusive places to live, since, in addition to the views, the peak is typically cooler than the sweltering city below. More than a century ago, the rich reached the peak after a 3-hour trip in sedan chairs, transported to the top by coolies. Then, in 1888, the Peak Tram began operations, cutting the journey from a grueling 3 hours to a mere 8 minutes. In 1989, the older, cast-iron green funicular cars with mahogany seats were replaced by new, modern cars imported from Switzerland, which increased the passenger load from 72 to 120 people.

The easiest way to reach the Peak Tram Station, located on Garden Road, is to take the no. 15C shuttle bus that operates between the tram terminal and the Star Ferry in Central. Shuttle buses cost HK$3.20 (US40¢/20p) and run every 10 to 20 minutes between 10am and 11:45pm. Otherwise, it's about a 10-minute walk from Central's MTR Station to the tram terminus on Garden Road. Alternatively, you can take Minibus no. 1 from City Hall in Central directly to the top of Victoria Peak, but then you'd miss the tram unless you opt to take it down.

As for the trams, they depart every 15 minutes between 7am and midnight. The tram climbs almost vertically for 8 minutes before reaching the top of the peak -- don't worry, there's never been an accident in its entire 100-odd years of operation. One-way tickets for the Peak Tram cost HK$20 (US$2.60/£1.40) for adults, HK$7 (US90¢/50p) for seniors, and HK$6 (US80¢/40p) for children. Round-trip tickets cost HK$30 (US$3.90/£2.15), HK$14 (US$1.80/£1), and HK$9 (US$1.15/65p), respectively. Or, you can use an Octopus card.

Upon reaching The Peak, you'll find yourself at the very modern Peak Tower (tel. 852/2849 7654; www.thepeak.com.hk), designed by British architect Terry Farrell, which looks like a Chinese cooking wok. Head straight for the rooftop viewing deck, where you'll be privileged to one of the world's most breathtaking 360-degree vistas, with sweeping panoramas of Hong Kong Island, the South China Sea, the skyscrapers of Central, boats plying Victoria Harbour, the ever-expanding construction on Kowloon peninsula, and the many hills of the New Territories undulating in the background.

After a multimillion-dollar makeover in 2006, Peak Tower is also home to Chinese, Western, and Japanese restaurants in a wide range of price categories, as well as a shopping arcade designed to evoke traditional Hong Kong street scenes. There's also Madame Tussauds Hong Kong, Level 3, Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., Victoria Peak (tel. 852/2849 6966; www.madame-tussauds.com.hk), with more than 100 life-size wax figures of national heroes, politicians, historical figures, Olympic medalists, movie stars, and musicians. In addition to the usual figures -- Marilyn Monroe, the Beatles, Winston Churchill, victims in a medieval torture chamber -- there are also local heroes like Jackie Chan, Michelle Yeoh, and Bruce Lee. Be sure to bring your camera. It's open daily from 10am to 10pm and costs HK$115 (US$15/£8.20) weekdays and HK$120 (US$20/£8.55) weekends and holidays. Children and seniors pay HK$65 (US$8.45/£4.65) and HK$70 (US$9.10/£5) respectively. Combination tickets for both the Peak Tram and Madame Tussauds are also available. You'll probably spend about 30 minutes here.

Across the street from Peak Tower is the Peak Galleria, a three-story complex with more shops, restaurants, an outdoor children's playground, and a viewing terrace.

But the best thing to do atop Victoria Peak is to take a walk. One of my favorite walks in all of Hong Kong is the hour-long circular hike on Lugard Road and Harlech Road, both located just a stone's throw from the Peak tram terminus (turn right out of the terminus; both streets converge at the Peak Lookout restaurant). Mainly a footpath overhung with banyan trees and passing lush vegetation, it snakes along the side of the cliff, offering great views of the Central District below, the harbor, Kowloon, and then Aberdeen and the outlying islands on the other side. Along the path are signboards identifying flora and fauna. You will also pass Victoria Peak mansions. At night, the lighted path offers one of the world's most romantic views (I don't recommend walking it alone, however). Don't miss it.

Riding a Tram

Just as the Star Ferry is the best way to see the harbor, the tram is the most colorful and cheapest way to see the northern end of Hong Kong Island, including the Central District, Western District, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay. In fact, the tram is so much a part of Hong Kong life that it was chosen for Hong Kong's exhibit at the Vancouver 1986 Expo. Dating from 1904, the tramline follows what used to be the waterfront (before the days of land reclamation). Old, narrow, double-decker affairs, the trams cut through the heart of the city, from Kennedy Town in the west to Shau Kei Wan in the east. There's only one detour -- off to Happy Valley -- so it's impossible to get lost.

In any case, if you're in Central, you can board the tram on Des Voeux Road Central. Climb to the upper deck and try to get a seat in the front row. I especially like to ride the tram at night, when neon signs are ablaze and the streets buzz with activity.