The Shopping Scene

Hong Kong is a duty-free port, which means that imported goods are not taxed in the SAR with the exception of only a few luxury goods like tobacco and alcohol. What's more, there is no sales tax in Hong Kong. Thus, you can buy some goods in the SAR at a cheaper price than in the country where they were made. It's less expensive, for example, to buy Japanese products such as designer clothing, cameras, electronic goods, and pearls in Hong Kong than in Japan itself. In fact, all my friends who live in Japan try to visit the SAR at least once or twice a year to buy their business clothes, cosmetics, and other accessories.

Although not as cheap as it once was, clothing is probably one of the best buys in Hong Kong, simply because of the sheer quantity and variety. If you've looked at the labels of clothes sold in your own hometown, you've probably noticed that many say MADE IN HONG KONG or MADE IN CHINA. While international designer garments and custom-made clothing are comparable to what you'd pay in high-end shops around the world, there are numerous cheaper options, including factory outlets, discount shops that sell season's end merchandise, street markets, and small stores where you can pick up inexpensive fashions for a song. But even when I end up paying about as much for an outfit as I would back home, I know I've purchased unique clothing in Hong Kong that's impossible to find in homogenized shopping malls.

Hong Kong is also a great place to shop for other Chinese products, including porcelain, tableware, jade, cloisonné, silk, handicrafts, hand-embroidery, Chinese herbs, Chinese traditional dresses and jackets, exotic teas from China's many provinces, antiques, and artwork. While Hong Kong prices are higher than what you'd pay in mainland China, the quality and quantity is quite good.

Other good buys include shoes, gold jewelry, furniture, carpets, leather goods, luggage (you'll probably need a new bag just to lug your purchases home), handbags, briefcases, cosmetics, and eyeglasses. Hong Kong is also one of the world's largest exporters of watches and toys. As for electronic goods and cameras, they are not the bargains they once were. Make sure, therefore, to check prices on goods at home before you come to the SAR so that you can accurately assess a bargain. The best deals are on recently discontinued models.

If you're interested in fake name-brand watches, handbags, or clothing to impress the folks back home, you've come to the right place. Although illegal, fake name-brand goods were still being sold at Hong Kong's night markets during my last visit by vendors who were ready to flee at the first sight of an official (even cheaper prices are offered for fake designer handbags and watches just across the border in mainland China). Of course, if Customs officials spot these fake goods in your bags when you return home, they'll be confiscated and you could be fined. Approximately half the fake goods seized by U.S. Customs agents come from mainland China.

When to Shop

Because shopping is such big business in Hong Kong, most stores are open 7 days a week, closing only for 2 or 3 days during the Chinese New Year. Most stores open at 10am and remain open until 7:30pm in Central, 9pm or 10pm in Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei, and 9:30pm in Causeway Bay. Street markets are open every day.

The biggest and best seasonal sale takes place around the Chinese lunar new year, generally in February. All the major department stores as well as shops in many of the huge shopping complexes hold sales at this time, with prices discounted about 40%. There is also a summer sale, usually in June or July, as well as end-of-season sales in the early spring and early autumn.

Caveat Emptor

Hong Kong is a buyer-beware market. Name brands are sometimes fakes; that cheap jade you bought may actually be glass; and electronic goods may not work. To make things worse, the general practice is that goods are usually not returnable, and deposits paid are not refundable.

On a personal note, I decided to buy a digital Sony camcorder and checked approximately 10 electronics stores, where I received price quotes ranging from HK$3,500 to HK$12,000 (US$455-US$1,560/£250-£857) for the exact same model. When I returned to the cheapest stores and asked to see the camcorder, however, I was told it was suddenly "out of stock," but the salesmen said they would be happy to show me a similar model for a slightly higher price. The problem is that there are so many models -- including many that never make it to Western markets -- that it's difficult to know exactly what you're getting and what constitutes a fair price. In the end, I fell for the old bait-and-switch and bought a discontinued Sony camcorder at a higher price than what I would have paid for a newer model in the United States. I didn't do my homework before departing home (even checking the Sony website while in Hong Kong would have been a smart move), and I ended up paying for my mistake.

To be on the safe side, try to make your major purchases at HKTB member stores, which display the HKTB logo (a gold circle with black Chinese calligraphy in the middle and the words "Quality Tourism Services") on their storefronts. There are hundreds of member stores, all listed in a hefty directory called A Guide to Quality Shops, which you can get free from the HKTB and at www.discoverhongkong.com/qts. Both give the names, addresses, and phone numbers of shops that sell everything from audio-video equipment to jewelry, clothing, optical goods, antiques, and custom-made clothing. QTS-accredited shops must pass stringent assessments each year, are required to give accurate information on the products they sell, and should respond promptly to justified complaints. Of course, prices are often higher than at nonmember stores, but the payoff should be peace of mind and reassurance that you are paying a fair price. If you do have a complaint against a member store, make sure you have the receipt and then contact either the Travel Industry Council of Hong Kong (tel. 852/2807 0707) or the Consumer Council Hotline (tel. 852/2929 2222) In case of a serious dispute you can also call the Hong Kong Police (tel. 999) 24 hours a day.

Guarantees & Receipts

It's always a good idea to obtain a receipt from the shopkeeper for your purchases, if for no other reason than as proof of value when going through Customs upon returning home. You'll also need a receipt if the product you've purchased is defective. A receipt should give a description of your purchase, including the brand name, model number, serial number, and price for electronic and photographic equipment; for jewelry and gold watches, there should be a description of the precious stones and the metal content. If you're making a purchase using a credit card, you should also ask for the customer's copy of the credit card slip, and make sure "HK$" appears before the monetary total.

If you're interested in a camera, electronic goods, watch, or any other expensive product, be sure to inspect the product carefully and make sure its voltage is compatible with that of your home country. Before purchasing, make sure that all parts, pieces, and the warranty card of your purchase are included in the box. Ask the shopkeeper for a manufacturer's guarantee, which should include the name and/or symbol of the sole agent in the SAR, a description of the model and serial number, date of purchase, name and address of the shop where you bought it, and the shop's official chop or stamp. Different products and models of the same brand may carry different warranties -- some valid worldwide, others only in Hong Kong. Worldwide guarantees (which is what you'll want) must carry the name and/or symbol of the sole agent in Hong Kong for the given product. Be aware of parallel imports, items brought into Hong Kong by someone other than the official import agent and which may be cheaper but offer a restricted guarantee and after-sale services. If you're in doubt, check with the relevant Hong Kong sole agent (information on sole agents for Sony, Rolex, and others can be obtained by calling the Consumer Council Hotline at tel. 852/2929 2222).

Comparison Shopping & Bargaining

The cardinal rule of shopping in Hong Kong is to shop around. Unless you're planning to buy antiques or art, you'll probably see the same items in many different shops on both sides of the harbor. If you've decided to buy a washable silk blouse for that favorite niece, for example, check a few stores to get an idea of quality, color, and style. With the exception of department stores and designer boutiques, you may be able to bargain for your purchase, though I've noticed that some shopkeepers are less willing to bargain than they once were. Still, at some of the smaller, family-owned stores, a good strategy is to ask what the "best" price might be. You should also ask for a discount if you're buying several items from the same store, and generally speaking, you can get a better price if you pay with cash rather than by credit card. How much you pay will depend on your bargaining skills and how many items you intend to purchase. Begin your comparison shopping as soon as you arrive in Hong Kong, so that you can get an idea of the differences in prices. As for street markets, you most certainly must bargain, though nowadays some vendors will just shake their heads and say their prices are fixed. If vendors are willing to bargain, sometimes just saying the item is too expensive and walking away will suddenly get you that "special price."

Shipping

Many stores, especially the larger ones, will pack and ship your purchases home for you. Since basic insurance usually insures only against loss, it's a good idea to buy an all-risk insurance for valuable or fragile goods, available at the store. However, since these policies can be expensive, find out whether using your credit card to make your purchase will provide automatic insurance.

In addition, all upper-bracket and most medium-range hotels offer a parcel-wrapping and mailing service. If you decide to ship your purchases home yourself, the easiest thing to do is to stop by the post office and buy ready-made boxes, which come with everything you need to ship goods home. Packages sent to the United States or Europe generally take 6 to 8 weeks by surface mail and 1 week by airmail. For major purchases, you can also buy postal insurance covering damage or loss in transit.