Only in Hong Kong

Night Tours

If you have only 1 or 2 nights in Hong Kong and you're uncomfortable roaming around on your own, I recommend an organized night tour. Watertours, an old Hong Kong company that specializes in boat tours, offers several evening cruises, including those that combine cruises with various land activities. The Aberdeen & Harbour Night Cruise, for example, includes a sunset cruise with unlimited drinks, dinner aboard the Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant in Aberdeen, and a stop at a scenic overlook midway up Victoria Peak. This 4 1/2-hour tour is offered nightly and costs HK$680 (US$88/£49), including dinner. There are also nightly cruises that coincide with the Symphony of Lights laser show. Watertours can be booked through most hotels or by calling tel. 852/2926 3868 (www.watertours.com.hk). Other tour companies offering night tours (these two concentrate on land tours but also offer evening cruises) include Gray Line (tel. 852/2368 7111; www.grayline.com.hk), which also offers an open-top bus night tour, and Splendid Tours & Travel (tel. 852/2316 2151; www.splendidtours.com).

If you're in Hong Kong anytime from September to May on a Wednesday evening, you can go to the horse races in Happy Valley or Sha Tin. Although you can go on your own for as little as HK$10 (US$1.30/70p), you can also take an organized trip to the races offered by both Gray Line and Splendid Tours, which includes a meal, a seat in the Royal Jockey Club members' stand, and racing tips.

Night Strolls

One of the most beautiful and romantic sights in the world must be from Victoria Peak at night. The peak tram, which costs only HK$30 (US$3.90/£2.15) round-trip and runs daily until midnight, deposits passengers at the Peak Tower terminal. From the terminal, turn right, and then turn right again onto a pedestrian footpath. This path, which follows Lugard Road and Harlech Road, circles the peak, offering great views of glittering Hong Kong. Popular with both lovers and joggers, the path is lit at night and leads past expensive villas and primeval-looking jungles. Definitely the best stroll in Hong Kong, it takes about an hour.

On the other side of the harbor, there's a promenade along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, which is popular among young Chinese couples. It stretches from the Star Ferry terminus all the way through Tsim Sha Tsui East, with very romantic views of a lit-up Hong Kong Island across the choppy waters. Best of all is the nightly "Symphony of Lights" from 8 to 8:18pm, when an impressive laser-and-light show is projected from more than 30 buildings on both sides of the harbor. The best vantage point: Avenue of Stars, where there's music and English narration Monday, Wednesday, and Friday nights (another favorite viewing spot is Bauhinia Square in front of the Convention Centre in Wan Chai).

The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is very safe at night, as it has lots of people. As for Victoria Peak, I have walked it alone several times at night, but to be honest, it's probably best with someone else.

Night Markets

If you're looking for colorful atmosphere, head for the Temple Street Night Market, near the Jordan MTR station in Kowloon. Extending for several blocks, it has stalls where clothing, accessories, toys, pens, watches, sunglasses, cassettes, household items, and much more are sold. Be sure to bargain fiercely if you decide to buy anything, and be sure to check the merchandise to make sure it isn't going to fall apart in 2 weeks. This is also a good place for an inexpensive meal at one of the dai pai dong (roadside food stalls), which specialize in seafood, including clams, shrimp, mussels, and crab.

But the most wonderful part of the market is its northern end, to the right, around the white parking area. There, near the Tin Hau temple, you'll find palm readers and fortunetellers, some of whom speak English, as well as street musicians and singers. You'll have to hunt for the tiny alleyway of musicians, where group after group has set up their own stages and are surrounded by an appreciative audience. Cantonese pop songs and operas are among the favorites, and when the musicians do an especially good job, they are rewarded with tips. Get there before 9pm to see the musicians. Otherwise, although some vendors set up shop as early as 4pm, the market is in full swing from about 7 to 10pm daily.

Farther north, near the Mong Kok MTR station, is the Ladies' Market, which stretches along Tung Choi Street between Argyle and Dundas streets. It's a great place to shop for inexpensive women's, men's, and children's fashions and accessories, including watches, handbags, T-shirts, and other goods. It's not quite as touristy as the Temple Street Night Market, and the atmosphere is fun and festive. It's open daily from about 12:30 to 10:30pm.