A small farming settlement for several centuries, Fanling is now a huge satellite town with more than 350,000 inhabitants. There is, however, a traditional part of Fanling that preserves its rural atmosphere and is the raison d'etre of the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. Many of the historic buildings along the trail are legacies of the Tang clan, the first and largest of the Five Great Clans to settle in the New Territories, back in the 12th century. Royal descendants of the eldest son of the princess of the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279), they established five wais (walled villages) and six tsuen (villages) in the area around Luk Yeuk Tau, which takes its name from the nearby Mountain of the Leaping Dragon. The trail, which stretches about 2.25km (1.4 miles) and takes approximately 1 hour to complete, passes more than a dozen historic structures along the way, including four walled villages, a study hall, a Tin Hau temple, and one of Hong Kong's largest ancestral halls, built in 1525 to honor the founding Tang ancestor. It also passes vegetable plots, tended by Hakka women wearing traditional fringed hats. The Tangs of the area still practice traditional village customs, including the Tin Hau festival (usually in Apr). This is a great walk.
To reach the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail, take minibus no. 54K from the east exit of Fanling Station to Lo Wai walled village (it's not the beginning of the trail, but it gets most interesting from here onward). Near the end of the trail, at the San Wai walled village, take bus no. 56K back to Fanling Station. Be sure to pick up the free brochure Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail, which contains a map and information on historic buildings, at one of the HKTB Visitor Information and Services Centres.
Where to Dine
The most memorable place to dine in Fanling is at Fung Ying Seen Koon, 66 Pak Wo Rd. (tel. 852/2669 9186), Hong Kong's largest Taoist temple, established in 1929 by refugees fleeing Canton (Guangzhou) and recently renovated. It offers vegetarian food daily from 11am to 5pm in a simple dining room to the left of the main hall. Main dishes on the English menu, ranging in price from HK$40 to HK$65 (US$5.20-US$8.55/£2.85-£4.65), include hot and spicy bean curd and fried elm fungus with three kinds of mushroom. There are also set meals for two or more people, costing HK$105 (US$14/£7.50) for two and HK$150 (US$19/£11) for three. No credit cards are accepted. To reach Fung Ying Seen Koon, visible from Fanling Station, take the west exit and go through the pedestrian underpass.
