A hutong is an ancient alley or lane, once common in Beijing's courtyard neighborhoods but now quickly disappearing. This stunning restaurant, however, is located on the 28th floor of a strikingly modern high-rise about as far from a real hutong as one can get, but it's to be commended for its down-to-earth yet dramatic setting, with red lanterns providing the only splash of color against a dark, muted interior, and windows providing fantastic views of Hong Kong. The cuisine, which is northern Chinese in origin but uses new ingredients and combinations to create its own trademark dishes, is so enticing it's hard to know what to recommend. I love the drunken raw crab (an appetizer marinated 3 days in Chinese wine), scallops tossed with pomelo segments, the crispy deboned lamb ribs, and crispy soft-shelled crab with Sichuan red chili. Even the pig throat-and-leek salad is a whole lot better than it sounds, especially when you wash it down with chilled lichee wine with a touch of soda. Note that there's a minimum charge of HK$300 per person, but you won't have trouble meeting the minimum at this pricey but great venue.
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