Gaia Ristorante

Frommer's Review

If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. That's the way I feel about all the new construction encroaching on the quaint Western District. This restaurant, ensconced in the colossal Grand Millennium Plaza building on the border between the Central and Western districts, has won me over with a great terrace, surrounded by lush trees and bushes that create the illusion of dining in a park. The contemporary interior is also inviting, with glass windows overlooking the terrace and a blindingly red bar off to one side. Of course, none of this would matter if the food didn't hold up, which it does. It's hard to resist such temptations as the wafer-thin Roman-style pizzas, homemade pasta tossed in a sangiovese-marinated rabbit stew ragout, or the red snapper sautéed with porcini mushrooms, leeks and artichokes. I also love coming for lunch, when the fixed-price meal includes a sumptuous antipasto buffet. The wine list is heavy on Italian imports.

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