What's New

It's boom time, and India is dancing to a quickened beat. In 2006 India's $1.1-trillion economy grew by a whopping 9.4%, a rate only rivaled by neighboring China, and reserves reached a staggering $212.4 billion. Nowhere is the boom more apparent than in the cities of Mumbai, New Delhi, Bangalore, and Chennai, where huge new shopping centers are being built to house the influx of international luxury goods coveted by a new, ever-expanding urban class keen to show off its newly acquired wealth and social status. Indeed, if you're planning a return trip to India, you can't help but notice the changes wrought by the country's growing affluence, from smooth new state highways and massive billboards advertising the latest designer goods to the rapidly expanding choices in upscale restaurants and chic hotels.

Once the preserve of peripatetic hippies, India is now hip, offering the sophisticated traveler a great deal more luxury. Besides exploring it with your personal chauffeur, you can now fly cross-country at the drop of a hat, book into a number of boutique-style getaways, dine at independent chef-owned restaurants, and enjoy much-improved hygiene standards throughout. Yet for all its increased sophistication, the streetscapes remain unchanged. Where else will you see the latest model Mercedes being reined in by a leisurely plodding cow or overtaking a magnificently caparisoned elephant? How many cities can blame their traffic jams on the gods, ritualistically dragged on chariots through the streets by throngs of sweating devotees? India is unlike any travel destination on earth, and you can do it in comfort and style without breaking the bank.

Planning Your Trip

The growing popularity of India in well-heeled travel circles has had a direct impact on prices, with top-end hotel tariff increases racing ahead of the official 5.06% inflation rate. It is also interesting to note how the luxury end, once utterly dependent on foreign markets, is now touting to its own countrymen -- hotels that once quoted dollar-only rates are now reverting to rupee rates, subtly declaring their allegiance to the local market while simultaneously cashing in on the country's quietly strengthening currency. At press time this was Rs 44 to $1 (Rs 81 to £1); do check the exchange rates before traveling; the rates quoted here may have shifted by the time you read this.

For many (eco-warriors aside) the best news is that virtually every major (and a few small) airlines now offer flights into India; some have even done us the great service of arriving during the day (rather than a few hours after midnight)! You can also fly direct to India from Sydney and New York, and airlines like British Airways and Jet Airways have introduced two daily direct flights into Mumbai. Despite this, it is virtually impossible to get a seat during peak season (Dec to early Jan), so if this is the time you plan to visit, book early.

Getting Around

Getting around India is also much improved, thanks to the launch of a slew of low-cost airlines and the discontinuation of the iniquitous practice of charging foreigners a higher dollar fare. You'll find our recommendations for best new budget airlines (it's no point purchasing a dirt-cheap fare only to have a 5-hr. delay at the airport), but do note that the domestic air travel market is still in flux. At publishing time several airlines' fates were up in the air as a result of takeovers, mergers, or acquisitions (among them: Kingfisher-Air Deccan, Jet Airways-Sahara, Indian-Air-India).

Mumbai

Mumbai's cab service has been given a boost with the introduction of private radio taxis, so getting anywhere should be easier, except of course when you're stuck in traffic. How could it get worse? Trust us, it has. Which is why many sensible travelers are choosing to base themselves in the Bandra-Juhu suburbs (closer to the airport, and good for Bollywood celeb spotting) instead of the more touristy, congested, and business-oriented downtown Colaba area. Bandra-Juhu doesn't have a tourist center, but it's studded with new restaurants, bars, endless shopping, and a vibrant nightlife, without Colaba's seedy edge.

We've added several new midrange accommodations options to suit travelers who don't want to go the five-star route.

Finally, if you're keen to take a weekend escape to the hills while you're in Mumbai, head to Matheran, a heavily wooded, vehicle-free town atop a hill, just a few hours from the city. It's a new addition to the chapter, but well worth it.

Goa

Goa is always on the rise, given its gorgeous beaches and reputation as an essential stop on the global party circuit. Every year sees the establishment of new seasonal outfits that rise up only to get swept away by the tide, but we've found a few gorgeous additions to the lineup. Of these, the lovely Elsewhere is well worth highlighting, as is Wildernest; the latter is the ideal break for those who've had enough of sun and sand. Unfortunately, Goa's very popularity is a threat to its long-term well-being. Outside the tourist areas are huge slums, home to migrants here to ferret for their fortune among the tourists and tat that line the beaches. In addition, unchecked development is taking its toll on the once-pristine environment. Equally worrisome is the increasing presence of Russian gangster types, here to cash in on the trance culture with drugs and prostitutes; you're unlikely to come across the hard edges of this new phenomenon, but if you encounter a couple of beefcakes touting large guns, best to back off and head for the next beach party.

Kerala

With yet another additional million bodies tramping around "God's Own Country," Kerala has perhaps (hopefully?) reached saturation point. Certainly the backwaters experience -- gently floating along on a kettuvallam (houseboat), passing plantations and villages while sipping a cup of chai made by your personal chef -- is not quite what it used to be: The beautiful crafts initially propelled by pole are now usually run by motor. A mere 4 years back perhaps 15 houseboats operated out of Alappuzha; today, with that figure closer to 400, the impact is potentially disastrous. In 2007 the state government finally started taking action against those polluting engines; certainly you can place your trust in the operators recommended in Kerala.

Another area that has "enjoyed" unprecedented growth is that of Ayurveda -- today even the smallest guesthouse offers this service. Besides the fact that a half-trained person will not provide adequate pleasure, the practice of reusing oils or using herbs indiscriminately is unhygienic and potentially dangerous. The Kerala government has reacted by providing "Green Leaf" (top) and "Olive Leaf" (good) accreditation. We have included these ratings in our reviews.

A lovely outcome of the tourism boom in Kerala has been the increase in homestays. Olavipe, a 19th-century family home in the backwaters, is a new gem we've uncovered. And although it's not strictly a homestay, Paradisa Plantation, near Periyar, is so personally run by the urbane Simon that you will feel completely at home (and feast on meals unsurpassed in India).

It's worth noting that most of Kerala's place names have changed -- these are all listed in the book, along with the old colonial-era name in brackets.

The last word on Kerala is that the northern regions, once thought too difficult to reach, are enjoying renewed interest -- and frequented in large part by Bangalore yuppies keen to escape the city for a breath of fresh air. Increasingly, foreigners are finding their way here as well: The popular Wyanad region, with its lush swaths of untouched nature, saw a massive 177% increase in international arrivals in 2006.

Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu has experienced far less change than Kerala, and hurrah for that. That's not to say that it's in stasis: The new entry fee to the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai is irritating proof that tourism is having an impact. On the positive side is the growing interest in the Chettinad region, with its huge turn-of-the-20th-century mansions, one of which you can now stay in. And Pondicherry's new sexy beachfront hotel, nearby artsy eco-resort, and plethora of Western-influenced shops get a big thumbs-up -- this is in many ways our favorite non-urban shopping destination, and together with Madurai and Chettinad an essential part of any driving tour of southern India, providing a more textured experience than just the glam beaches and plantations of Kerala.

Karnataka

Karnataka has two new boutique yoga retreats. Just 35km (22 miles) from Bangalore is the new ultra-luxurious Shreyas Yoga Retreat, where a handful of visitors follow a tailor-made wellness program in an "ashram-meets-Aman" atmosphere. On the northern tip of Karnataka, at legendary Om beach, CGH Earth has opened Swaswara, similarly driven to not only provide a pampered holiday, but assist you in making a long-term lifestyle change.

Bangalore continues to be one of India's hippest, happening cities with great shopping and dining (at press time the top see-and-be-seen restaurant was the newly opened branch of the fab Olive Beach), but other than this urban hotbed there's not much to report from Karnataka. One destination that is very beautiful and rewarding, with a barely developed infrastructure, is Coorg. The hills are gorgeous, the food amazing, and the people very friendly, with strikingly different customs. We've included a small section on this region should you have time to explore this area -- best done before it takes off like its counterparts in Kerala (Munnar and Wayanad) and Tamil Nadu (Ooty).

Delhi & Madhya Pradesh

Over and above the mushrooming of countless high-rise chain hotels all over the capital, Delhi finally has a choice of stylish midrange accommodations. Owned, designed, and run by a French duo, Amarya Haveli and Amarya Garden offer intimate luxury in two converted mansions in residential neighborhoods south of the city center. You'll also find a host of bed-and-breakfasts opening throughout the city (the Tourism Ministry wants to develop sustainable tourism, particularly targeting the midrange travel market), and we're happy to say that you can even find a few decent, affordable accommodations right near Connaught Place. In particular, the once-awful Hotel Place Heights has gone from roach motel to a comfortable and aesthetically satisfying stay.

The capital has expanded at an unprecedented rate in recent years; it's all part of Delhi Master Plan 2021, a far-reaching government initiative to drag the rapidly growing metropolis into the future, where it is poised to be a leading world capital. The city is also gearing up to host the 2010 Commonwealth Games -- this has set off a surge in development in and around the center, not to mention throughout the burgeoning National Capital Region, which incorporates the commercial "cities" of Gurgaon and Noida. The economic shakeup has also resulted in the widespread shutting down of a number of establishments -- most worrisome being a number of excellent restaurants housed in ancient buildings that have been deemed unsafe. But while some of our old favorites, like Thai Wok, have had to close their doors, there has been a marked trend toward quality dining beyond the traditional confines of the city's five-star hotels. Of these, Véda is certainly the most beautifully designed eatery in town and well-located in Connaught Place.

While visitors to Delhi will find fewer cows, beggars, and (apparently) pollution than just a few years ago, the sheer density of the population -- and the traffic -- hasn't subsided; what is changing, however, is the city ethos. Increasingly, draconian laws have been put in place to assist with modernization; in 2007, traffic violations (including all kinds of irresponsible and dangerous driving) were identified as a legal priority, while street food was officially banned. You'll have to see for yourself if these measures have any sort of real impact on the latest incarnation of Delhi. Certainly, if you visit its newest attraction, the Disneyesque Akshardham Temple Complex (on the eastern bank of the Yamuna River), you'll be first-party witness to the evolving aspirations -- spiritual and material -- of the people who now inhabit this pulsating capital, which is fast becoming a financial powerhouse.

Near Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, archaeologists are busy unearthing a number of previously undiscovered temples that have been buried for centuries but may well reveal secrets about India's famously erotic monuments. In Khajuraho, The Grand Temple View is now the most luxurious and exclusive (not to mention expensive) lodging in town.

South of Khajuraho, at Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, the sumptuous Mahua Kothi is the first in a range of upmarket safari lodges established by a collaboration between India's Taj hotel group and South Africa's CC Africa, world leaders in luxurious safari experiences. Thanks to Mahua Kothi, Bandhavgarh is now giving Ranthambore a run for it's money as the top tiger destination in India; certainly it's less inundated by visitors, and your chances of getting up close and personal to a tiger -- on the back of an elephant, no less -- are probably better here than anywhere else on the subcontinent.

Rajasthan

Rajasthan has seen plenty of changes. Jaipur has swollen apace and is now almost always choked with traffic and crowds; the city simply cannot keep up with the commercial and industrial developments that have lured people here in droves, hoping to find their fortune. Fortunately, you can escape the city -- at least between sightseeing and shopping binges -- and get to stay with Jaipur socialites (their aristocratic blood palpable) at K Country Villa, a luxury home with a handful of smart cottages, just beyond the city limits in a countryside setting; birdlife around the nearby lake has been favorably compared with that at Bharatpur.

Like Jaipur, Udaipur is growing fast, but it remains the most charming city in Rajasthan and an essential stop on a North India itinerary. The French-designed Verandah on the Lake resort should be up and running by the time you read this.

If you're traveling between Jaipur and Udaipur by car (still the best way to see the state), you might consider spending a night (or two) at the lovely, peaceful Shahpura Bagh; it's well off the beaten track, and the aristocratic hosts have created beautiful accommodations in the vast guest rooms of two colonial bungalows. Ever-popular Deogarh Mahal now has a sister property, the exclusive, sexy Fort Seengh Sagar, with only four guest rooms; the verandas are perfect for long, lazy afternoons with cocktail in hand.

Transportation throughout Rajasthan is being steadily upgraded, and an airport is believed to be in Jaisalmer's immediate future, which means increased tourist numbers. Given Rajasthan's burgeoning infrastructure, we've included some details of what to do and where to stay if you happen to get to Bikaner, another intriguing desert city with a stirring medieval marketplace within the old walled center and a fascinating fort.

Finally, if you plan to visit the holy town of Pushkar, be warned that it is now more commercialized than ever; if you prefer to be away from the crowds, consider staying in a luxury cottage or tent at the new resort-style Pushkar Bagh, which is relatively exclusive (30 units), and not only well-designed, but brimming with amenities.

Himachal Pradesh

Himachal Pradesh has seen very little development -- hardly surprising, since most of the hill stations in India have lost their charm to concretization and short-sighted (blind?) tourism authorities. Manali, ever popular with those in quest of marijuana, is really not worth going to for a holiday; although Indians still flock there by the hundreds for honeymoons and summer vacations, the Israelis have established entire colonies here, and a corrupt police force protects their informal drug-trade-fueled economy. We've included a few lodging options outside of town so you can enjoy what you're really here for: the scenery. But if its scenery you're after, you should be planning a trip to far-flung Ladhak. Leh has seen a huge increase in tourist traffic, and a concurrent improvement in infrastructure -- we have our fingers crossed that it's not going the way of every other hill station -- but make sure you have the time and resources to explore the more off-the-beaten-track spots like Tso Moreri and Pangong Tso, which are still pretty untouched.

Uttarakhand

The tiny Himalayan foothill state formerly known as Uttaranchal is now Uttarakhand, having adopted the name by which it is known in the ancient Hindu sacred texts, the Puranas.

Kolkata & East India

Moving east, the city of Kolkata remains an unexpected delight, with a plethora of dining options that will have the gourmet in you in a state of permanent bliss. It's also the perfect base to explore the northern and northeastern states -- the latter are slowly emerging as new and exciting destinations in India (if you're not fazed by a lack of infrastructure), thanks to a marked decrease in the insurgency that troubled these little-known states. Of these, beautiful Assam is the most "doable," thanks to Assam Bengal Navigation, an enterprising Indo-British venture that offers luxury cruises on the Brahmaputra river. But if you find yourself on this side of India, there is one stop we urge you to make: the gorgeous Glenburn Tea Estate, with a gracious Raj-era atmosphere, gorgeous views, and the luxury of space and privacy.

Lastly, remote Sikkim has also become more popular of late, with the opening up of stunning North Sikkim (to tourists) and Nathu La (for trade with China), and a spate of lovely new homestay options. Don't expect luxury, other than the pleasure of experiencing traditional hospitality -- after all, in India it is a sacred belief that the guest is king.