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Best Dining Bets

Bumping into a Bollywood Idol (Mumbai): Nowhere in India is dining more rewarding than in Mumbai, where the streets are filled with literally thousands of restaurants representing every kind of Indian cuisine. But if it's star-gazing you're after, head for places like the Olive Bar and Kitchen restaurant in Bandra or Enigma nightclub in Juhu. Alternatively, hang out at Leopold Café; casting agents looking for foreigners to work as extras frequently scan the clientele at this favored travelers' hangout.

Eating Alphonso Mangoes in Mumbai: You may have eaten mangoes in Mexico, Thailand, or even other parts of India, but until you've had an Alphonso from Ratnagiri in rural Maharashtra, you'll be missing a sensory experience like no other. The king of mangoes has a succulent bright orange pulp, bewitching scent, and divine flavor.

Dining with Ancient Delhi at Your Feet (Delhi, Uttar Pradesh): Head for Thai Wok, the designer-chic rooftop restaurant with great views of ancient Qutb Minar -- the sandstone Victory Tower built by Qutbuddin Aibak in 1193. Reached via an ancient elevator and a short set of stairs, the artful alfresco setting includes a walled area with cushioned seating under wind-blown canopies; reserve well ahead to sit here. Seafood dishes are exceptional; try red snapper in chili-sour sauce, or prawns stir-fried with fresh green chilies and sweet basil.

Eating with Your Hands: Though it may initially go against the grain, there's something immensely rewarding about digging into a delicious meal with your hands. Indians generally do, and -- at least once -- you should follow suit. Note that ideally you only use your right hand, and in the North, where the food is "drier," you are traditionally not supposed to dirty more than the first two digits; in the South you may use the whole hand.

Sipping a Sweet Lassi: A delicious drink of liquefied sweetened yogurt, this is almost a meal in a glass and should definitely be sampled (some of the best we've tried were in Amritsar, Goa, and Jaipur). Do, however, make sure that no water has been added (including ice), and beware the bhang lassi -- spiced with marijuana, it can make the usually surreal scenes of India a little too out of this world.

Sitting Around a Bonfire under a Desert Sky (Rajasthan): There's nothing quite like eating a superb meal around a raging campfire in the peace of the desert night. Camel and horseback safaris are run out of Shekhawati, Bikaner, Pushkar, and Jaisalmer. If you opt for the latter, Royal Desert Safaris has a permanent tented camp with en-suite tents near Sam Dunes, run by Fort Rajwada, with food supplied by the team of chefs that cooks up a storm at Trio, Jaisalmer's best restaurant.

Sampling Bod-Jha, Tibetan Butter Tea, with a Buddhist Lama (Leh, Ladakh): Many people gag at the taste of butter tea, made with salt and -- you guessed it -- a good dollop of the clarified butter known as ghee. It's an acquired taste, but if you get the hang of it, sipping the buttery concoction with a friendly Buddhist monk when you visit one of the many monasteries tucked in the lunar landscapes around Leh is a truly memorable experience.


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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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Frommer's India, 3rd Edition Frommer's India, 3rd Edition

Author: Pippa deBruyn
Pub Date: March 04, 2008
Price: $24.99

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