To spend an evening the way most Iraklians do, stroll and then sit in a cafe and watch others stroll by. The prime locations for the latter have been Plateia Eleftheria (Liberty Sq.) or Fountain Square, but the crowded atmosphere of these places -- and some overly aggressive waiters -- has considerably reduced their charm.
For a more relaxed atmosphere, go to Marina Cafe at the old harbor (directly across from the restored Venetian arsenali). For as little as 2€ ($2.60) for a coffee or as much as 9€ ($12) for an alcoholic drink, you can enjoy the breeze as you contemplate the illuminated Venetian fort, which looks much like a stage set.
An alternative is Four Lions Roof-Garden Cafe (tel. 2810/222-333); enter through an interior staircase in the shopping arcade on Fountain Square. It attracts younger Iraklians, but travelers are welcome. The background music is usually Greek. You get to sit above the crowded crossroads and, with no cover or minimum, enjoy anything from a coffee (2€/$2.60) or ice cream (from 3€/$3.90) to an alcoholic drink (from 4€/$5.20).
There is no end to the number of bars and discos featuring everything from international rock 'n' roll to Greek pop music, although they come and go from year to year to reflect the latest fads. Disco Athina, 9 Ikarou, just outside the wall on the way to the airport, is an old favorite with the young; or try any of the clubs along Epimenidou -- the Veneto Bar, Club Itan, or Gozo.
Most Class A hotels now host a Cretan Night, when performers dance and play traditional music. For more of the same, take a taxi to either Aposperides, out on the road toward Knossos, or Sordina, about 5km (3 miles) to the southwest of town.
During the summer, Iraklion's arts festival (though hardly competitive with the major festivals of Europe) brings in world-class performers (ballet companies, pianists, and others), but mostly featured are ancient and medieval-Renaissance Greek dramas, Greek-themed dance, or traditional and modern Greek music. Many performances take place outdoors in one of three venues: on the roof of the Koules (the Venetian fort in the harbor), Kazantzakis Garden Theater, or Hadzidaksis Theater. Ticket prices vary from year to year and for individual events but are well below what you'd pay at such cultural events elsewhere. Maybe you didn't come to Crete expecting to hear Vivaldi, but why not enjoy it while you're here? The festival begins in late June and ends in mid-September.
