Things To Do in Iraklion

Iraklion Attractions

Museum's Temporary Display

When this edition went to press, Iraklion's Archaeological Museum was still closed for major renovations and additions, although it was claimed it would be open by the spring of 2012. However, they have installed a selection of all the major holdings in a new building at the rear of the museum. Its hours have been Tuesday to Sunday 8:30am to 5pm; Monday noon to 5pm. Admission is 4€; 2€ for students and E.U. seniors. To be frank, this reduced selection is probably enough for most visitors -- all the notable pieces are on display. One drawback is that the floor space is limited, so try to visit there during off hours -- very early in the morning or late in the day.

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Iraklion Shopping

Costas Papadopoulos, the proprietor of Daedalou Galerie, 11 Daedalou, between Fountain Square and Plateia Eleftheria (tel. 2810/346-353), has been offering his tasteful selection of traditional Cretan-Greek arts and crafts for several decades -- icons, jewelry, porcelain, silverware, pistols, and more. Some of it is truly old, and he'll tell you when it isn't.

Eleni Kastrinoyanni-Cretan Folk Art, 3 Ikarou, opposite the Archaeological Museum (tel. 2810/226-186), is the premier store in Iraklion for some of the finest in embroidery, weavings, ceramics, and jewelry. The work is new but reflects traditional Cretan folk methods and motifs. Get out your credit card, and go for something you'll enjoy for years to come. It's closed October through February.

Stores that sell local agricultural products have sprung up all over Iraklion. Crete's olive oil -- among the finest in the world -- stands side by side with honey, wines and spirits, raisins, olives, herbs, and spices. One store is as good as the other.

Iraklion Nightlife

To spend an evening the way most Iraklians do, stroll and then sit in a cafe and watch others stroll by. The prime locations for the latter have been Plateia Eleftheria (Liberty Sq.) or Fountain Square, but the crowded atmosphere of these places -- and some overly aggressive waiters -- has considerably reduced their charm.

For a more relaxed atmosphere, go to Marina Cafe, at the old harbor (across from the restored Venetian arsenali). For as little as 2€ for a coffee or as much as 9€ for an alcoholic drink, you can enjoy the breeze as you contemplate the illuminated Venetian fort, which looks much like a stage set. Another possibility if you're looking to have a late meal and hang out with a younger crowd is to try the small cafe/restaurant right on the 1866 Street (the Market street), Peninda-Peninda.

An alternative is Filos Sophias Roof-Garden Cafe (tel. 2810/222-333); enter through an interior staircase in the shopping arcade on Fountain Square. It attracts younger Iraklians, but travelers are welcome. The background music is usually Greek. You get to sit above the crossroads and, with no cover or minimum, enjoy anything from a coffee (2€) or ice cream (from 3€) to an alcoholic drink (from 4€).

There is no end to the number of bars and discos, featuring everything from international rock 'n' roll to Greek pop music, although they come and go from year to year. Disco Athina, 9 Ikarou, just outside the wall on the way to the airport, is an old favorite with the young; or try any of the clubs along Epimenidou -- the Villa Lokka or Privilege -- or Vogue or Envy along the seafront.

Most Class A hotels now host a Cretan Night, when performers dance and play traditional music. For more of the same, take a taxi to either Aposperides, out on the road toward Knossos, or Sordina, about 5km (3 miles) to the southwest of town.

During the summer, Iraklion's arts festival brings in world-class performers (ballet companies, pianists, and others), but mostly featured are ancient and medieval-Renaissance Greek dramas, Greek-themed dance, or traditional and modern Greek music. Many performances take place on the roof of the Koules (the Venetian fort in the harbor), Kazantzakis Garden Theater, or Hadzidaksis Theater. Ticket prices vary, but are well below what you'd pay at such cultural events elsewhere. Maybe you didn't come to Crete expecting to hear Vivaldi, but why not enjoy it while you're here? The festival begins in late June and ends in mid-September.