Here is a Greek island the way they used to be: It pretty much goes its own way while you travel around and through it. That said, Kefalonia does have its natural wonders, a few historical buildings and archaeological sites, and many fine beaches. It also has a full-service tourist industry, with fine hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies -- the whole show. Since Kefalonia was virtually demolished by the earthquake of 1953, most structures on this island are fairly new. And it has long been one of the more prosperous and cosmopolitan parts of Greece, thanks to its islanders' tradition of sailing and trading in the world at large. The filming of the 2001 movie Captain Corelli's Mandolin also gave a temporary boost to tourism here. But don't come to Kefalonia for glamour. Come to spend time in a relaxing environment, to enjoy handsome vistas and a lovely countryside.