Things To Do in Kefalonia

Kefalonia Attractions

Staying in Kefalonia's capital and largest city, Argostoli, allows you to go off on daily excursions to beaches and mountains, yet return to the comforts of a city. It has the island's most diverse offering of hotels and restaurants, and it feels urban. For those who find that Argostoli doesn't offer enough in the way of old-world charm or diversions, we point out some of the other possibilities on Kefalonia.

Argostoli's appeal does not depend on any archaeological, historical, architectural, or artistic particulars. It's a city for observers -- travelers who are content strolling or sitting and observing the passing scene: ships along the waterfront, locals shopping in the market, children playing in the squares. Head to Vallianou (Central) Square ★ or the waterfront to find a cafe where you can nurse a coffee or ice cream. Premier Cafe, on the former, and Hotel Olga, on the latter, are as nice as any.

The best nearby beaches are just south of the city in Lassi, which now has numerous hotels, pensions, cafes, and restaurants much loved by package groups.

The Home of Odysseus? -- Odysseus, the hero of Homer's epic, came from the island of Ithaka. Over the centuries, a few scholars debated which island this was -- some even arguing that, in any case, it was all a fiction -- but in general, it came to be accepted that Odysseus's island was the same as the one we know today by that name. In 2005, however, several Englishmen announced that they had established that the true Ithaka of Homer's Odysseus is the Paliki peninsula, which hangs down along the northwestern coast of Kefalonia. As to the objection that Homer's Ithaka was an island, they claimed that Paliki had been an island but that seismic forces had since joined it to Kefalonia. As of this writing, there is little archaeological evidence to support this claim -- and no remains to visit. But for those who relish Homer, it might be worth the few hours it would take to drive over to Paliki and check out the land. (There is also a frequent ferry that cuts down the travel time; but when you disembark, you would need to get wheels to explore the peninsula.) In any case, you might consider packing a paperback translation of the Odyssey.

Kefalonia Shopping

Interesting ceramics are for sale at Hephaestus, on the waterfront, at 21 May; Alexander's, on the corner of Plateia Museio (the square 1 block back from the waterfront); and the Mistral, 6 Vironis, up the hill opposite the post office, offering the work of the potter/owner.

For a taste of the local cuisine, consider Kefalonia's prized Golden Honey, tart quince preserve, or almond pralines. Another possibility is a bottle of one of Kefalonia's highly praised wines. You can visit Calliga Vineyard (selling white Robola and red Calliga Cava) or Gentilini Vineyard (with more expensive wines), both near Argostoli; or Metaxas Wine Estate, south of Argostoli. The tourist office on the waterfront will tell you how to arrange a tour.

Kefalonia Nightlife

Free outdoor concerts are occasionally given in the Central Square. At the end of August, the Choral Music Festival hosts choirs from all over Greece and Europe. The grand new Kefalos Public Theater stages plays, almost always in Greek and seldom in high season. Young people looking for a bit more action can find a number of cafes, bars, and discos on and around the Central Square; they change names from year to year, but Cinema Music Club, Rumours, Prive, Stavento, Daccapo, and Traffic have been fairly steady. Bass, up by the museum, is a favorite club. If your style runs more to lounging with classic rock, try the Pub Old House, off Rizopaston, the palm-tree lined avenue leading away from the main square. At the beach resort of Lassi, So Simple Bar is popular.