Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- From Athens, there are at least three flights daily on Olympic Airways (with some flights via Zakinthos). The Argostoli office is at 1 Rokkou Vergoti, the street between the harbor and the square of the Archaeological Museum (tel. 26710/28-808). Kefalonia Airport is 8km (5 miles) outside Argostoli. As there is no public bus, everyone goes to Argostoli by taxi, which costs about 15€. Check to see if Airsea Lines is providing its promised hydroplane connections with Corfu (tel. 80111/800-600; www.airsealines.com).

By Boat -- As with most Greek islands, it's easier to get to Kefalonia in summer than in the off season, when weather and reduced tourism eliminate the smaller boats. Ferries to Kefalonia are operated by at least four lines, Strintzis, Agoudimos, Endeavour, and Ionian; check out their schedules at www.gtp.gr or www.ferries.gr. If you don't make arrangements with a travel agent, you can buy tickets dockside. Throughout the year, a car-passenger ferry leaves daily from Patras to Sami (about 2 1/2 hr.). There is also at least one car-passenger ferry daily (1 1/2 hr.) from Killini (on the northwest tip of the Peloponnese) to one of several ports of Kefalonia -- Argostoli, Sami Lixouri, or Poros. To give some idea of the cost, a round-trip Patras-Kefallonia-Patras trip for a couple with their own cabin would be about 130€.

Beyond these more or less dependable services, during the high-season months of July and August there are alternatives -- ships to and from Corfu, Ithaka, Levkas, Brindisi (Italy), or other ports -- but they do not necessarily hold to the same schedules every year.

Visitor Information

Argostoli Tourism Office in Argostoli is at the Port Authority Building on Ioannis Metaxa along the harbor (tel. 26710/22-248). It's open in high season daily from 7:30am to 2:30pm and 5 to 10pm; in low season, hours are reduced to Monday through Friday from 8am to 3pm.

Getting Around

By Bus -- You can get to almost any point on Kefalonia -- even remote beaches, villages, and monasteries -- by KTEL bus (tel. 26710/22-276 in Argostoli). Schedules, however, are restrictive and may cut deeply into your preferred arrival at any given destination. KTEL also operates special tours to major destinations around the island. The KTEL station is on Leoforos A. Tritsi, at the far end of the harbor road, 200m (656 ft.) past Trapano Bridge.

By Taxi -- If you don't enjoy driving on twisting mountain roads, taxis are the best alternative. In Argostoli, go to Vallianou (Central) Square and work out an acceptable fare. A trip to Fiskardo, with the driver waiting for 3 to 4 hours, might run to 180€ -- with several passengers splitting the fare, this isn't unreasonable for a day's excursion. Everyone uses taxis on Kefalonia, and although drivers are supposed to use their meters, many don't; agree on the fare before you set off.

By Car -- There are literally dozens of car-rental firms, from the well-known international companies to hole-in-the-wall outfits. In Argostoli, I've found Auto Europe, 3 Lassis (tel. 26710/24-078), and Euro Dollar, 3A R. Vergoti (tel. 26710/23-613), to be reliable. In high season, rental cars are scarce, so don't expect to haggle. A compact will come to at least 75€ per day (gas extra); better rates are usually offered for rentals of 3 or more days.

By Moped & Motorcycle -- The roads on Kefalonia are asphalt and in decent condition but are often narrow, lack shoulders, and twist around mountain ravines or wind along the edges of sheer drops to the sea. That said, many travelers choose to get around Kefalonia this way. Every city and town has places that will rent two-seater mopeds and motorcycles for about 30€ to 40€ per day.

Fast Facts

There are several banks with ATMs in the center of Argostoli. The hospital (tel. 26710/22-434) is on Souidias (the upper road, above the Trapano Bridge). Internet access is available at Internet Point, 8 A. Metaxa (tel. 26710/22-227; www.f2d.gr), or at Excelixis Computers, 3 Minoos (tel. 26710/25-530; xlixis@otenet.gr). Express Laundry, 46B Lassi, the upper road that leads to the airport, is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 9pm. A load costs 5€. Argostoli's tourist police (tel. 26710/22-200) are on Ioannis Metaxa, on the waterfront across from the port authority. The post office is in Argostoli on Lithostrato, opposite no. 18 (tel. 26710/22-124); its hours are Monday through Saturday from 7:30am to 2pm. The main telephone office (OTE) is at 8 G. Vergoti. It's open daily, April through September from 7am to midnight, and October through March from 7am to 10pm.