You'll find all kinds of unique gifts and souvenirs in Key West, from coconut postcards to Key lime pies. On Duval Street, T-shirt shops outnumber almost any other business. If you must get a wearable memento, be careful of unscrupulous salespeople. Despite efforts to curtail the practice, many shops have been known to rip off unwitting shoppers. It pays to check the prices and the exchange rate before signing any sales slips. You are entitled to a written estimate of any T-shirt work before you pay for it.
At Mallory Square, you'll find the Clinton Street Market, an overly air-conditioned mall of kiosks and stalls designed for the many cruise-ship passengers who never venture beyond this super-commercial zone. Amid the dreck are some delicious coffee and candy shops and some high-priced hats and shoes. There's also a free and clean restroom.
Once the main industry of Key West, cigar making is enjoying renewed success at the handful of factories that survived the slow years. Stroll through "Cigar Alley" (while on Green St., go 2 blocks west and you'll hit Cigar Alley, also known as Pirate's Alley), where you will find viejitos (little old men) rolling fat stogies just as they used to do in their homeland across the Florida Straits. Stop at the Conch Republic Cigar Factory, 512 Greene St. (tel. 305/295-9036), for an excellent selection of imported and locally rolled smokes, including the famous El Hemingway. Remember, buying or selling Cuban-made cigars is illegal. Shops advertising "Cuban cigars" are usually referring to domestic cigars made from tobacco grown from seeds that were brought from Cuba decades ago. To be fair, though, many premium cigars today are grown from Cuban seed tobacco -- only it is grown in Latin America and the Caribbean, not Cuba.
If you're looking for local or Caribbean art, you'll find nearly a dozen galleries and shops clustered on Duval Street between Catherine and Fleming streets. There are also some excellent shops scattered on the side streets. One worth seeking out is the Haitian Art Co., 600 Frances St. (tel. 305/296-8932), where you can browse through room upon room of original paintings from well-known and obscure Haitian artists in a range of prices, from a few dollars to a few thousand. Also, check out Cuba, Cuba! at 814 Duval St. (tel. 305/295-9442), where you'll see paintings, sculpture, and photos by Cuban artists as well as books and art from the island.
For foodies, the Key Lime Pie Co. (tel. 305/294-6567) is so popular for its pies, cookies, and pretty much anything you can think of made with Key lime (candles, soaps, lotions) that there are two locations on the tiny island. One is at 701 Caroline St.; the other is at 424 Greene St. From sweet to spicy, Peppers of Key West, 602 Greene St. (tel. 305/295-9333), is a hot-sauce-lover's heaven, with hundreds of variations, from mild to brutally spicy. Grab a seat at the tasting bar and be prepared to let your taste buds sizzle.
Literature and music buffs will appreciate the many bookshops and record stores on the island. Key West Island Bookstore, 513 Fleming St. (tel. 305/294-2904), carries new, used, and rare books and specializes in fiction by residents of the Keys, including Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Shel Silverstein, Ann Beattie, Richard Wilbur, and John Hersey. The bookstore is open daily from 10am to 9pm. Flaming Maggie's, 830 Fleming St. (tel. 305/294-3931), carries a wide selection of gay books. It's open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm.
Also check out KW Light Gallery, 534 Fleming St. (tel. 305/294-0566), for high-quality contemporary photography as well as historic images and other artwork that relate to the Keys or exemplify the concept of light and its varied interpretations. The gallery is open Thursday through Tuesday from 10am to 6pm (10am-4pm in summer).
