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Things To Do in Key West

Key West Attractions

Key West's greenest attraction, the Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center, opened in early 2007. Overlooking the waterfront at the Truman Annex (35 E. Quay Rd., tel. 305/809-4750), the Center features 6,000 square feet of interactive exhibits depicting Florida Keys underwater and upland habitats -- with emphasis on the ecosystem of North America's only living contiguous barrier coral reef, which parallels the Keys. Kids dig the interactive yellow submarine while adults seem to get into the cinematic depiction of an underwater abyss. Free admission. Open 9am to 4pm daily except Sunday and Monday.

Before shelling out big bucks for any of the dozens of worthwhile attractions in Key West, I recommend getting an overview on either of the two comprehensive island tours, the Conch Tour Train or the Old Town Trolley. There are simply too many attractions and historic houses to list. I've highlighted my favorites below, but I encourage you to seek out others.

Going, Going, Gone: Where to Catch the Famous Key West Sunset

A tradition in Key West, the Sunset Celebration can be relaxing or overwhelming, depending on your vantage point. If you're in town, you must check out this ritual at least once. Every evening, locals and visitors gather at the docks behind Mallory Square (at the westernmost end of Whitehead St.) to celebrate the day gone by. Secure a spot on the docks early to experience the carnival of portrait artists, acrobats, food vendors, animal acts, and other performers trading on the island's bohemian image. But the carnival atmosphere isn't for everyone: In season, the crowd can be overwhelming, especially when the cruise ships are in port. Also, hold on to your bags and wallets, as the tight crowds make Mallory Square at sunset prime pickpocket territory.

A more refined choice is the Westin's Sunset Deck (tel. 305/294-4000), a luxurious second-floor bar on Front Street, right next door to Mallory Square. From the civilized calm of a casual bar, you can look down on the mayhem with a drink in hand.

Also near the Mallory madness is the bar at the Ocean Key Resort, at the very tip of Duval Street (tel. 800/328-9815 or 305/296-7701). This long open-air pier serves drinks and decent bar food against a dramatic pink-and-yellow-streaked sky.

For the very best potent cocktails and great bar food on an outside patio or enclosed lounge, try Pier House Resort and Caribbean Spa's Havana Docks, 1 Duval St. (tel. 305/296-4600). There's usually live music and a lively gathering of visitors enjoying this island's bounty. The bar is right on the water and makes a prime sunset-viewing spot.

A Great Escape

Many people complain that Key West's quirky, quaint panache has been lost to the vulture of capitalism, evidenced by the glut of T-shirt shops and tacky bars. But that's not entirely so. For a quiet respite, visit the Key West Tropical Forest Botanical Gardens (tel. 305/296-1504; www.keywestbotanicalgarden.org), a little-known slice of serenity tucked between the Aqueduct Authority plant and the Key West Golf Course. The 11-acre gardens -- maintained by volunteers and funded by donations -- contain the last hardwood hammock in Key West, plus a colorful representation of wildflowers, butterflies, and birds. Over 60 endangered botanical species are alive and well here. A genetically cloned tree is one of the many sites at "the only frost-free tropical moist garden in the continental United States." Located at Botanical Garden Way and College Road, Stock Island. Free admission but a donation of $5 per adult, $4 per child (12 to 18) is suggested. Open daily from 8am to sunset. Follow College Road; then turn right just past Bayshore Manor.

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More About Key West Attractions

Key West Shopping

You’ll find both unique gifts and schlocky souvenirs in Key West, from coconut postcards and Key lime pies to more crude, lewd clothing and tchotchkes. On Duval Street, T-shirt shops outnumber almost any other business. If you must get a wearable memento, be careful of unscrupulous salespeople. Despite efforts to curtail the practice, many shops have been known to rip off unwitting shoppers. It pays to check the prices and the exchange rate before signing any sales slips. You are entitled to a written estimate of any T-shirt work before you pay for it.

At Mallory Square, you’ll find the Clinton Square Market, an overly air-conditioned mall of kiosks and stalls housed in an old US Navy customs building and designed for the many cruise ship passengers who never venture beyond this supercommercial zone. Beyond the high-priced hat and shoe shops, the real reason to head here is for its free and clean restroom.

Once the main industry of Key West, cigar making is enjoying renewed success at the handful of factories that survived the slow years. Though you will no longer find viejitos (little old men) rolling fat stogies in the streets just as they used to do in their homeland across the Florida Straits, the Original Key West Cigar Factory, 1075 Duval St. (tel. 305/998-9141) has an excellent selection of imported and locally rolled smokes. Also consider booking the 10:30 am or 1:30pm tour at Rodriguez Cigar Factory, 113 Fitzpatrick St. (tel. 305/296-0167), where you’ll learn about the family’s history in Key West as cigar makers dating back to 1831, and watch them prepare, wrap, construct, and roll. Cost is $35 for the 90 minute tour which includes a cigar and Cuban espresso.

Remember, buying or selling Cuban-made cigars is illegal. Shops advertising “Cuban cigars” are usually referring to domestic cigars made from tobacco grown from seeds that were brought from Cuba decades ago. To be fair, though, many premium cigars today are grown from Cuban seed tobacco but in Latin America and other areas of the Caribbean.

If you’re looking for local or Caribbean art, you’ll find nearly a dozen galleries and shops on Duval Street between Catherine and Fleming streets. There are also some excellent shops on the side streets. One worth seeking out is the Haitian Art Co., 1100 Truman Ave. (tel. 305/296-8932), where you can browse through room upon room of original paintings from well-known and obscure Haitian artists, in a range of prices from a few dollars to a few thousand.

Literature and music buffs will appreciate the many bookshops and record stores on the island. Key West Island Bookstore, 513 Fleming St. (tel. 305/294-2904), carries new, used, and rare books, and specializes in fiction by residents of the Keys, including Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Shel Silverstein, Ann Beattie, Richard Wilbur, and John Hersey. The bookstore is 10am to 8pm Monday through Saturday and noon to 6pm on Sunday.

For a glimpse of a literary legend or two, check out the small, but cozy and comprehensive Books & Books @ The Studios, 533 Eaton St., (tel. 305/320-0208), a branch of Miami’s lauded, beloved indie bookstore  that was co-founded by a local whose name you may recognize: Judy Blume. She’s often working behind the counter here.

Key West Nightlife

Duval Street is the Bourbon Street of Florida. Amid the tacky T-shirt shops, you’ll find bar after bar serving neon-colored frozen drinks to revelers who bounce from bar to bar from noon to dawn. If you want to join the throngs, start at Truman Avenue and head up Duval. Cover charges are rare, except in LGBTQIA+ clubs, so stop into a dozen and see which you like. Key West is a late-night town, and most bars and clubs don’t close until around 3 or 4am.

The Gay Scene

Key West’s live-and-let-live atmosphere extends to its thriving and quirky LGBTQIA+ community. Before and after Tennessee Williams, Key West has provided the perfect backdrop to a gay scene unlike that of many large urban areas. Seamlessly blended with the prevailing culture, there is no “gay ghetto” in Key West, where the whole place is fabulous.

In Key West, the best music and dancing can be found at the predominantly LGBTQIA+ clubs. While many of the area’s other hot spots are geared toward tourists who like to imbibe, these clubs are for those who want to rave, queer or not. Covers vary, but are rarely more than $20.

Two popular adjacent late-night spots are the 801 Bourbon Bar/One Saloon (801 Duval St. and 504 Petronia St.; tel. 305/294-4737 or 305/294-4727;), featuring great drag and lots more disco. While a mixed crowd comes for the drag shows, a mostly male clientele frequents bar from noon to 4am. Another Duval Street favorite is Aqua, 711 Duval St. (tel. 305/294-0555), where you might catch drag queens belting out torch songs or judges voting on the best package in the wet-jockey-shorts contest.

Sunday nights are fun at La-Te-Da, proper name: La Terraza de Martí, 1125 Duval St. (tel. 305/296-6706), the former Key West home of Cuban exile José Martí. This is a great spot to gather poolside for the best martini in town—don’t bother with the food. Upstairs is the Crystal Room (📞 305/296-6706), with a high-caliber cabaret performance featuring the popular Randy Roberts, who does a fabulous Cher, Bette Midler and more, in winter.