Nightlife

The largest, grandest, and most formal theater in Klagenfurt is the Stadttheater, Theaterplatz 4 (tel. 0463/540640; www.stadttheater-klagenfurt.at), which presents opera, classics of German theater, and chamber and orchestral music performed by visiting groups. Built in 1910, this building went through a 2-year renovation (ending in 1998) that has given it a new state-of-the-art interior.

If you're lucky enough to arrive in Klagenfurt between mid-July and late August, make a point of strolling through the Neuerplatz every evening after 9:30pm. Here, open-air movies of famous cultural events (from virtually everywhere) are presented without charge. Past presentations have included filmed concerts by Billy Joel, Liza Minnelli, Montserrat Caballé, Bruce Springsteen, Tina Turner, and the Vienna Opera's presentation of various operas by Verdi. Kiosks around the square's perimeter offer snacks and drinks.

The rest of the year, take an evening stroll around the neighborhood of the Pfarr-platz, where you'll find most of Klagenfurt's nightlife options. The best of the lot includes Bar Gallo Nero, Pfarrhofgasse 8 (tel. 0463/512780), where there's live music that never dips into anything too loud, too metallic, or too abrasive. Nostalgic references to Ireland pour out of Pub Molly Malone, Theatergasse 7 (tel. 0463/57200), where pints of Irish, German, and Austrian beer make the traditional ballads and fiddle music more appealing.