Attractions

Besides the top attractions listed below, one of the first things first-time visitors are usually encouraged to do is take a drive to the Knysna Heads, where you can walk right up to the lagoon mouth and watch skippers gingerly navigate the treacherous surf. Stop for tea at the East Head Café, and then view the rare Knysna seahorse at the small NSRI aquarium, endangered by the ongoing development in and around the lagoon.

Exploring the forests is another major drawing card , as are lagoon-based activities; several companies run boat trips on the lagoon, home to 200 species of fish and a major supplier of oysters -- expect to see these on almost every Knysna menu.

Another local product worth trying is the beer. Mitchell's Brewery, Arend Street (tel. 044/382-4685), produces four types of unpasteurized "live" ales, the best of which are Bosun's Bitter and Forrester's Draught. You can either take a 10-minute tour and tasting (Mon-Fri 10:30am or 3pm; tastings only 9:30am-4:30pm) or sample them with your meal at any of the Knysna eateries. Ask for directions or a list of outlets from the Tourism Bureau, or combine oyster- and beer-tasting with a lagoon trip by boarding the John Benn Ferry (tel. 044/382-1693) and heading for the bar. To reach the closest sandy shore, you'll need to head west to Brenton-on-Sea, an endless stretch of sand 16km (10 miles) from Knysna, or, better still, east for Noetzie Beach, some 11km (6 3/4 miles) from town. It's a steep walk down to this beautiful little beach, but a small, very swimmable estuary spilling out into the ocean and five over-the-top crenellated castles overlooking the beach make it more than worthwhile. Knysna lagoon's Bollard Bay, accessed from Leisure Isle, is an excellent family beach, with safe swimming in the shallow waters of the lagoon.

Last but not least, Knysna offers some of the best shopping this side of Cape Town, though much of it is very hippie-inspired and artsy. The exception to this, with its super-sophisticated take on African-influenced housewares and local crafts, is Am-Wa, corner of Waenhout and Vigilance Drive, Knysna Industria (tel. 044/382-3186). The buyer has an exceptionally good eye for what is described as "original functional art," on par with anything you'd find in the best of Cape Town's design shops.

The Top Attractions

One of the top attractions on the Garden Route, the Choo-Tjoe train has for many years been the region's prized icon, its 1948 locomotives photographed chugging across the Knysna lagoon into the verdant valleys and lakeside settings to traverse the Kaaimans River gorge and Victoria Bay to George. However, due to the extensive flood damage that occurred in 2006, the Knysna-George route has been suspended and replaced with the less spectacular George-Mossel Bay route. Sadly, there's no sign of the Knysna route being reintroduced. If you're interested in the George-Mossel Bay route, book through Kontours (tel. 082/569-8997; www.kontours.co.za); they provide a map with points of interest as seen from the train, and will pick you up, take you to George to board, and then transfer you to Knysna from the Mossel Bay station.

Guided Tours -- For customized nature walks and tours, contact Howard Butcher (tel. 072/018-1333 or 044/388-4761; www.walkwild.co.za; howard@walkwild.co.za), a FGASA-registered guide in his 40s who covers everything from birding and fungi, to entomology, musical township tours, and unraveling complex ecosystems. He is also an accomplished bush pilot and can put together itineraries that cover the country when time rather than money is your primary consideration. All excursions, from half-day walks to full itineraries, are planned to suit your time and pocket; prices start at R100 per person per hour for short outings; the longer your itinerary, the more cost-effective it becomes.

Boat Tours -- The Featherbed Company (tel. 044/382-1693) runs trips to the nature reserve of the same name. With comfortable seating and a restaurant/bar on board, the floating double-decker John Benn Ferry (tel. 044/382-1693) offers a 90-minute trip on the lagoon that costs R120 for adults, meals and drinks extra. R250 buys you a ticket on the Heads Explorer -- the only ferry licensed to go through the Heads. Featherbed also offers a range of other cruises on its paddle cruiser and Three Legs ferry. For sailing trips, contact Springtide Charters (tel. 082/470-6022; www.springtide.co.za; prices on application) to charter the hand-built luxury yacht Outiniqua for one of various exclusive cruises, including breakfast, all-day, sunset, dinner, or overnight cruises (you can request your own gourmet chef).

Activities -- The Hippo Dive Campus can organize snorkeling and scuba diving experiences. Contact tel. 044/384-0831.