Hotels in Knysna

If The Lofts is full or you're traveling as a family or group and would like to stay on Knysna's most chi-chi island, with the lagoon at your doorstep and some of the best restaurants within walking distance, look into renting an apartment, cottage, or villa on Thesen Island -- Thesen Islands Destinations (tel. 044/382-7550; www.theislands.co.za) is the official short-term rental agent. Although locals are very unhappy at the rate of development on Knysna's previously pristine eastern head, there's no reason you should be. Take a look at Head Over Hills (tel. 044/384-0949; www.headoverhills.co.za; R2,260-R4,390, depending on room and season). Perched high above the town and ocean, it has eight rooms, all with glass "walls" that fold back to cantilevered decks that provide one of the most dramatic sea views on the Garden Route. Not far away is The Alexander (tel. 044/384-1111; www.alexanderhouse.co.za; R1,800-R4,000 double). It's won the odd award, but the best rooms are pricey, and you should be aware that not all have unimpeded views. The decor is wildly extravagant, but if you have a liking for lush atmospheres of "unashamed opulence," as they put it, this may be right for you. I preferred the look of Stilty Bird House (tel. 072/679-7473; www.cape-venues.co.za), with its dramatic views of the Heads, but this is a self-catering, sole-use villa (it has four en-suite rooms, sleeping 8; R4,000-R7,000 a night).

If you don't want to spend a lot of money, but staying in the center of town at Inyathi Guest Village doesn't appeal, Peace of Eden (tel. 044/388-4671 or 072/528-5859; www.peaceofeden.co.za; high season R695-R950 double, low season R450-R650 double) offers a cottage and five cabins at the edge of the forest, 15 minutes away from town off Rheenendal Road. Owned by nature lovers Jen and Howard, the cabins -- often booked by South African bands here to utilize Howard's recording studio -- are comfortable and cozy, and ideal if you prefer the countryside or love riding horses (they keep some for guests' use). A quirky option, also off Rheenendal Road, is Portland Manor (tel. 044/388-4604; www.portlandmanor.com; R900-R1,450 double). Lawnwood Lodge has some comfortable rooms (nos. 2, 7, 11, and 17 have good views), but if you want something different, stay in the slightly spooky Manor House. Mod it's not: The dining room looks like the original inhabitants have quietly stepped out for a while (and will soon be back); antiques date back to when the manor was built in the 1850s, and some rooms are slightly fusty (Kate's Place and the Sun Room are good options). It's certainly full of character, and the property boasts a restaurant, a wonderful pub, a hippo, and some antelope.

Golfers who find Pezula out of their league should consider newcomer Simola (tel. 044/302-9600; www.simolaestate.co.za; R2,250-R2,550 one-bed double). Situated high on a hill behind Knysna with sweeping views, a Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course, and a spa, Simola offers comfortable rooms at reasonable prices. The one-bed units (not to be confused with the tiny standard rooms) have their own fully equipped kitchens, so guests can cut costs by self-catering rather than dining at the on-site restaurant, the Orchid Room. Accommodations at Pezula may be more luxurious, but Simola's golf course is more highly rated.

Also on a hill just out of town, overlooking the Knysna lagoon, is the friendly Elephant Hide Lodge (tel. 044/382-0426; www.elephanthide.co.za; R1,320 -- R1,640 double) -- seven standalone stone and timber cottages, most with views and decks, and a main lodge area. The rooms are delightful, but you'll have to drive to town -- or ask the owners about their tailor-made tours to local attractions. To experience a different side of Knysna, look into a Knysna home stay and spend the night in the local township with a warm and welcoming family (call Glendyrr, at tel. 044/382-5510, for more information). For more long-stay options (of up to 2 weeks or so), contact Knysna Booking Services (tel. 044/382-5510; bookings@knysna-info.co.za). Prices vary depending on season; most specify low, mid, and peak seasons. Low season is usually from May 1 to August 31, with peak season usually from mid-December to mid-January.

A Castle of Your Own

In the 1930s, in a secluded, unspoiled cove outside Knysna called Noetzie, one Herbert Stephen Henderson set about building a holiday home using local stone. When a neighbor reportedly joked that all the house needed to become a castle was a turret or two, Henderson promptly added a few. That was the beginning of the Noetzie castles; over the next 30 years, five more were built by various people and these still line one of the most beautiful beaches on the Garden Route, accessible to all but the infirm (there's quite a steep walk up and down from the car park). One of the castles, now owned by Pezula Hotel & Spa, has been converted into remarkable accommodation options (the Pezula Private Castle was recently named one of the Top 101 Suites in the World by Elite Traveler). It is suitably palatial, with a total of five enormous luxury suites, walk-in wardrobes, gracious living areas, a 10-seat dining room, and a heated pool. A personal chef and butler cater to your every whim. All Pezula activities are included in the rate -- from R54,370 a night for the main castle, with three suites, or from R74,870 for the entire complex (www.pezulaprivatecastle.com); rates includes all meals and resort activities.

If this makes you splutter, consider a room in Lindsay Castle (tel. 044/384-1849; www.knysnacastles.com; R1,200-R2,400 double). Situated at the western end of Noetzie beach, it enjoys the same sublime views and privacy -- and, yes, it too has turrets (don't book these; book the Honeymoon Suite, with gorgeous sea views). Even accessing Lindsay Castle can be quite an adventure; there are times that this can be done only on foot, and the journey requires some scrambling over rocks. It's charming, dinners are provided on request (but I'd head into Knysna), and you will be able to spend blissful days hiking, swimming in the estuary, and watching for otters or dolphins. You can also rent the entire castle, if you prefer -- it sleeps eight.

Noetzie was declared a conservancy in 1999 and remains unspoiled (thanks to the fact that there is no public road to the beach). Locals aren't all happy at Pezula's rapacious water needs, but for now, it retains its otherworldly beauty.