Taipa & Colôane Islands

Macau's two islands -- Taipa and Colôane -- are now joined together by COTAI, a massive land-reclamation development that will see the opening of the Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel in 2007, followed by many more projects over the next 10 years. Luckily, much of Colôane remains Macau's undeveloped playground, a good place to get away from it all.

Taipa

Closest to the mainland, Taipa was accessible only by ferry until 1974, when the Macau-Taipa Bridge was finally completed. Two additional bridges have led to increased development on Taipa, including unsightly new apartment blocks and booming suburbs that have pushed the population on this small, 6.5-sq.-km (2 1/2-sq.-mile) island to 42,000. Still, Taipa is worth a visit for quaint Taipa Village with its popular restaurants and colonial architecture. Taipa is also home of the United Chinese Cemetery with its blend of Confucianist, Taoist, and Buddhist influences, a university, Macau Stadium, and the Macau Jockey Club for horse racing.

For history and architecture buffs, the first stop should be Taipa Village, a small traditional community of narrow lanes, alleys, squares, and two-story colonial buildings painted in hues of yellow, blue, and green. Although now almost completely engulfed by nearby housing projects, village life remains in full view here, with women sorting the day's vegetables on towels in the street, children playing, and workers carrying produce and goods in baskets balanced from poles on their shoulders. On or near Rua do Cunha, the picturesque pedestrian-only main street with its hanging baskets of flowers, are a number of fine, inexpensive restaurants, making dining reason enough to come.

But for sightseeing, the best place to visit is the Casa Museu da Taipa (Taipa House Museum), on Avenida da Praia (tel. 853/28827088). It is one of five colonial-style buildings lining the street -- homes that belonged to Macanese families in the early 1900s. Combining both European and Chinese design as a reflection of the families' Eurasian heritage, the Casa Museu has a dining and living room, study, kitchen, upstairs bedrooms, and large verandas that face banyan trees and what was formerly the sea (now reclaimed land), reflecting the fact that most entertaining in this small colonial outpost -- a boat ride from Macau -- took place at home. The home is filled with period furniture, paintings, art, and personal artifacts reflective of a dual heritage. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 6pm, and admission is $5 ptcs (US60¢/35p). Other buildings on the banyan-shaded Praia open to the public contain displays relating to the history of Taipa and its inhabitants, and traditional regional costumes of Portugal. Next to the buildings, on a hill, is Our Lady of Carmel Church, built in the 19th century for the devout Macanese Catholics.

The easiest way to reach Taipa Village is to board one of the buses that stops in front of the Hotel Lisboa near the bridge on the mainland. Bus nos. 11, 15, 22, 28A, 30, 33, and 34 all go to Taipa Village.

Colôane

Farther away and connected to Taipa via a huge added strip of reclaimed land called COTAI, which has essentially made the two islands one, Colôane once served as a haven for pirates who preyed upon the rich trading ships passing by. The last pirate raid was as late as 1910, when bandits kidnapped 18 children and demanded ransom. Government forces eventually overpowered the pirates, freeing all the children. At any rate, Colôane today, measuring 7.8 sq. km (3 sq. miles) but with a population of only 4,000, is less developed than Taipa and is known for its beaches, pine trees, eight marked hiking trails, golf course, and traditional village. At its center, on Colôane Hill and visible from miles away, is a 20m (65-ft.) white marble statue of A-Ma. Two of the most popular beaches are Cheoc Van and Hac Sa (which means "black sand"). Both beaches have lifeguards on duty in the summer, restaurants, and nearby public swimming pools that are open until 10pm. To reach them, take bus no. 21A or 26A from Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro in the city center or from the Lisboa Hotel; bus no. 25 also runs from the Lisboa Hotel to both beaches. Bus no. 15 connects the beaches with Taipa Village.

Also on the coast is the laid-back, quaint community of Colôane Village. Now that Taipa Village has suffered so much surrounding development, I find Colôane Village much more picturesque and a worthy destination if exploring the islands. Located on the southwestern tip of the island, it is so close to China that it almost seems like you can reach out and touch it. Boats headed to and from China pass through the narrow waterway. The social center of the village revolves around a small, tiled square, which is lined on two sides with cloistered cafes. In its center is a monument erected in 1928 to commemorate those who fought in the 1910 battle against the pirates. At its end is the small but sweet Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, built in 1928 and dedicated to Asia's most important and well-known Catholic missionary. The church, built in classic Portuguese style, would seem rather plain if it weren't for its exuberant Asian artwork. For a snack, head to Lord Stow's Bakery, Colôane Town Square (tel. 853/28882534), serving what some contend are Macau's best Portuguese egg tarts, best when eaten fresh from the oven.